Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-26949-1167597112.jpgive been reading the other threads and it seems some out there dont believe that a series 2 autech exists.i was bidding on a brochure some time ago that might put the myth to bed ----------- Excellent used condition. Japanese Text. This is a rare Japanese brochure for the JDM Nissan Stagea 260RS Autech version (aka 'Skyline Wagon', this was powered by the almighty RB26DETT). Printed in 1999, this is a high quality brochure featuring an array of fantastic photography as well as technical information, specifications, features, performance, interior, options, colours etc. for this incredible car. Essential for any Stagea or Skyline enthusiast.----------i hope this helps ohh by the way i missed out on winning it .but the ebay link is -----http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=006&sspagename=STRK%3AMEDW%3AIT&viewitem=&item=160058058643&rd=1&rd=1 Edited by mike40sydney
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149335-1999-autech-260rs-stagea/
Share on other sites

can you point to anything to say this is based on a r34 GTR? ie R34 GTR suspension, engine, turbos, intercooler, etc?

If not, it is still a R33 GTR conversion from a stagea, ie not what I would call a series 2 autech (even if their marketting department did).

OK, did a bit more research

The autech site definitly says (http://www.autech.co.jp/HISTORY-SV/WC34S01/index.htm) that it is based on the series 2 rs four s - the bit on the line with the "GF-WGNC34" says model S.

changed from the S -

70KG heavier

It has super-hicas - I'm going to check my S when it gets home (it's the wifes car.. :-) and have a real look to see if it is hicas or super hicas..

upgraded brakes

R33 GTR RB25DETT - you can tell from the spec on the autech page.

It appears to have the same gearbox (5 speed, not 6), diff (lsd), drivetrain as the S (going from the gear ratios and memory)

So my point is that while it is an excellent car - it is NOT based on the R34 GTR. And given the the PRICE difference from the rs4s - which has the r34 neo engine/turbo/intercooler instead of the R33 RG26DETT - I'm not sure a 1999 one is a good buy.. ie it isn't anywhere near as big an upgrade as a series 1 auto to the 260rs is, and it costs a lot lot more than a S..

I suspect I could put a r34 R26DETT with good turbos, intercooller, brakes etc into my S for a total cheaper price than buying a 1999 autech.. :cool:

OK, did a bit more research

The autech site definitly says (http://www.autech.co.jp/HISTORY-SV/WC34S01/index.htm) that it is based on the series 2 rs four s - the bit on the line with the "GF-WGNC34" says model S.

changed from the S -

70KG heavier

It has super-hicas - I'm going to check my S when it gets home (it's the wifes car.. :-) and have a real look to see if it is hicas or super hicas..

upgraded brakes

R33 GTR RB25DETT - you can tell from the spec on the autech page.

It appears to have the same gearbox (5 speed, not 6), diff (lsd), drivetrain as the S (going from the gear ratios and memory)

So my point is that while it is an excellent car - it is NOT based on the R34 GTR. And given the the PRICE difference from the rs4s - which has the r34 neo engine/turbo/intercooler instead of the R33 RG26DETT - I'm not sure a 1999 one is a good buy.. ie it isn't anywhere near as big an upgrade as a series 1 auto to the 260rs is, and it costs a lot lot more than a S..

I suspect I could put a r34 R26DETT with good turbos, intercooller, brakes etc into my S for a total cheaper price than buying a 1999 autech.. :P

Nice work.

...GO the RS4S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK guys, here is what ive found with my investigations into the 260RS's about 3-4 months ago, which I also posted in various threads.

* Series 2 260RS's exist.

* By checking VIN numbers and things in FAST, ive found that the turbos/block/gearbox are all R33 GTR, making me beleive that the S2 260RS is just a upgraded front.

* The cost of the S1 vs S2 260RS's is about 10,000AUD landed/complied MORE for the S2

* Unjustifiable cost in my opinion when you could just do a front conversion on the S1 for less than 10,000AUD

* HOWEVER, you are getting a lower KM RB26, but might not be worth if you are going to modify it/rebuild anyway

Hence, after my investigations, I found that a rough/blown motor 260RS would suit me best.

Cant ever rule out other little things though, such as maybe upgraded interior and other long-term servicable items such as wheel bearings, brake cylinders, globes etc etc etc

OK guys, here is what ive found with my investigations into the 260RS's about 3-4 months ago, which I also posted in various threads.

* Series 2 260RS's exist.

* By checking VIN numbers and things in FAST, ive found that the turbos/block/gearbox are all R33 GTR, making me beleive that the S2 260RS is just a upgraded front.

* The cost of the S1 vs S2 260RS's is about 10,000AUD landed/complied MORE for the S2

* Unjustifiable cost in my opinion when you could just do a front conversion on the S1 for less than 10,000AUD

* HOWEVER, you are getting a lower KM RB26, but might not be worth if you are going to modify it/rebuild anyway

Hence, after my investigations, I found that a rough/blown motor 260RS would suit me best.

Cant ever rule out other little things though, such as maybe upgraded interior and other long-term servicable items such as wheel bearings, brake cylinders, globes etc etc etc

From all the info I've read/seen/heard, I'm with Alex on this one - the s2 Autech was just a cosmetic makeover to match the rest of the s2 update (both interior and exterior - I think the interior trim was also updated), and everything else as far as engine and driveline is concerned stayed the same.

I'd still call it a series 2, because it was an update, however minor...

I'd still call it a series 2, because it was an update, however minor...

And I'd call it a series 1 revision 2, as 1) not enough changed (ie same motor etc etc) 2) A series 2 to me would mean R34 GTR parts.. ie the big change from a series 1 stagea to a series 2 stagea whas swapping from the R33GTT engine/intercooler/turbo to the much better R34 GTT NEO engine/intercooler/turbo etc

ie (again) the RS4S changed a bit in 2000 (June) but we still call it a series 2 RS4S, we just add a 'rev 2' to it as nothing major changed..

And as someone who sent me an email said, in my comment above I hadn't factored in SELLING my NEO engine etc - if I do that I could easily upgrade to a RB26DETT + Brakes for less than the price difference between the S and 1999 260RS..

Ian

Here is a genuine Series 2 Autech for sale in NZ.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-81870505.htm

hopefully if things go to plan that will be in Australia soon... im trying to get my dad to buy it and bring it to AUS with him. Complianced and registered it should work out to about 35k AUD... whats the going rate to buy one in good nick here in Aus?

Glad this topic was started - i wasnt aware theat is was basically just a facelift from S1 to S2 autechs. Bit dodgy, really.... could be misleading to those who dont do their research.

For the price difference, get an S1 and put an R34 front on it, id say. thats my plan anyway.

Apart from the 6 speed, what differences are there between the drive train of the C34 Autech and the R34 GTR?

Glad this topic was started - i wasnt aware theat is was basically just a facelift from S1 to S2 autechs. Bit dodgy, really.... could be misleading to those who dont do their research.

For the price difference, get an S1 and put an R34 front on it, id say. thats my plan anyway.

Apart from the 6 speed, what differences are there between the drive train of the C34 Autech and the R34 GTR?

I still dont get why everyone thinks those changes dont warrant a new series... R33 GTST S1 and S2... pretty positive they were mainly cosmetic changes too. Its not like it has a brand spankin new engine with more power.

Apart from the 6 speed, what differences are there between the drive train of the C34 Autech and the R34 GTR?

a lot of lot of lot of differece between these two cars... Not even worth comparing. Which is why they shouldn't have called a 1999 autech a C34 one (as it is misleading - though great for marketting..).

I still dont get why everyone thinks those changes dont warrant a new series... R33 GTST S1 and S2... pretty positive they were mainly cosmetic changes too. Its not like it has a brand spankin new engine with more power.

That is exactly the problem - if you use different series to describe essential the same car ie R33 GTST S1 and S2 you shouldn't use it to describe major changed cars. ie nobody calls a R34 GTT a series 3 R33, it's a different model...

So if we call the stageas the R33 Stagea and the R34 Stagea, then you could call the 1999 autech a R33 series 2 stagea without confusing people (as per the bit I've written above.. :-)...

Anyway, it's all just naming. The 1999 autech is still a nice car, I just wouldn't be paying a lot more for it than a 1998 autech as it has the same motor, turbo, intercooler, etc etc. ie a bit more yes, a lot more no..

Same for the autech 1999 vs a RS4S - I'd pay more for the autech, but I wouldn't be paying double!

Ian

i think people need to get the R33 out of their heads... its not a skyline... its not a R33... its a Stagea Autech series 2... its a newer version of the old model which is the same. How hard is that to comprehend? EVERY COMPANY DOES IT

do you think a MKII XR6 is any different from a MKI structurally or mechanically? NO... they just might fix a few niggly things and spruce it up a bit.

Of course its going to be worth more then a Series 1 because its a different series... not a different car... its going to be worth more then a previous year because its newer!

No not double... but looking in the NZ autotraders all the time they generally dont sell for huge amounts more.

Would you pay the same for a 1995 R33 GTST then a 1996 R33 GTST? I wouldnt. Theyre the same car but one is newer and looks better.

Would you pay the same for a 1995 R33 GTST then a 1996 R33 GTST? I wouldnt. Theyre the same car but one is newer and looks better.

The condition of the car would be far more important the the one year difference. Which would be the same when comparing a 1998 and 1999 autech stagea, but would NOT be the same between a 1998 and 1999 stagea as they fundemantally changed key components...

The condition of the car would be far more important the the one year difference. Which would be the same when comparing a 1998 and 1999 autech stagea, but would NOT be the same between a 1998 and 1999 stagea as they fundemantally changed key components...

thats right. Thats the whole point. Regardless of what people say it is a Series 2. A valid Series 2.

In all honesty it doesn't matter what we want to call it. It is a S2 and will remain an S2 because thats what Nissan called it (assuming they did. I actually have no idea what we are discussing :P).

For example; a company releases a car called a dickadid, then they put a new kit on it, changed one or two other minor details and released a dickadid s2. It might be stupid and idiodic because little changed but its still a dickadid s2.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...