Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.

Havind just purchased my car, stock 96 R33 gts-t, i would like to make it sound nicer. In a month or two im planning on getting a full turbo back and cooler, but for now, how do i get some induction noise? can i just put a pod filter on it? i dont want to spend much to be honest, hardly anything. a specific brand? could i just rock up to autobarn and get one? Price? Any ideas.

Sorry for such a newbie thread.

Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149445-how-to-get-some-induction-noise/
Share on other sites

if you put a pod filter on , your car will become more responsive as far as sounds . the stock air box is heaps restrictive . you will get heaps of sound , and your bov will sound heaps louder . car will make a wshhhhh sound .

cheers

apexi pod filter ftw - i think the one u want is the 022 model (i think) - got mine for around $150 fitted @ RE Customs. Autobarn has k&n stuff - good filters, but the reviews for the apexi were better...

you'll probably need an adapter plate to go from the four bolts of the afm to the circular pod

the apexi pod (022 model) will bolt up to the afm straight. if sillylankan choose to go for other brand, he will need them.

ok thanks guys, let me get this straight, if i go to autobarn and get the k&n filter ill need to get addional stuff, but if i get that apexi one, it just bolts straight on?

cheeeeeerrrs

ok thanks guys, let me get this straight, if i go to autobarn and get the k&n filter ill need to get addional stuff, but if i get that apexi one, it just bolts straight on?

cheeeeeerrrs

yup for K&N you will need an adaptor plate. Apexi bolt on straight onto the afm.

Mate, Ill swap you my massive Blitz pod filter (Lots and lots and lots of induction noise) with adapter plate and support bracket for your factory airbox and snorkel. If your keen PM me, I live in Sydney.

Shit u live in Melbourne... My bad :laugh:

Edited by Chris_R33GTSt
Mate, Ill swap you my massive Blitz pod filter (Lots and lots and lots of induction noise) with adapter plate and support bracket for your factory airbox and snorkel. If your keen PM me, I live in Sydney.

Shit u live in Melbourne... My bad :)

from my personal experience they are a lot louder than the apexi ones, not mentioning their poor filteration result.

to make the best sound:

dont run any filters at all...just take everything after AFM off, and the car sounds really really really really loud.

caution: it could cause long term damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...