Jump to content
SAU Community

Powerfc Tune And Boost?

evil_weevil

By evil_weevil,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Getting my car tuned late next week, and so far its just ya 33gtst with "basic mods" using a turbosmart single stage boost controller (flick between standard 7 and its meant to be set to 10psi but spikes 50% of the time!) and Im thinking - should I ditch the turbosmart b/c and go back to the normal solonoid to prevent the thing from spiking and causing issues, or as its being tuned (2-3 day tune) will it be alright?

At the moment the car is running like crap and I just cant wait for the tune to stop all these bugs.

But my main concern is boost. is 7psi stock going to be sufficient? Or should I use the turbosmart b/c and just keep it at the one setting?

Or somehow rob a bank and buy an EBC for minimum 500?

Cheers guys,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149726-powerfc-tune-and-boost/
Share on other sites
siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted

You want EBC-- those profec spec B's are 390 to your door step!! look in trader section!!

Otherwise see what the tuner says!! Buy another cheap bleed value and if there any issues with your turbosmart while tuning, ask your tuner to use the new bleed value and see if that works..

If its still spiking, get a ebc..

But see what your tuner says first..

series2r33 Collaborator

series2r33

Posted
Posted

I got my eboost 1 for $550 brand new. U might be able to get one cheaper second hand or off ebay. Its got 3 boost settings which is perfect since my cars main priority is road use, but the 3 preset settings u can jump between at the press of a button makes its easy if u wanna really give it a boot or take it to the drags. I've got mine set at 8 - 10 and 14 psi. I cant see the point of spending the extra money and getting an eboost 2 with the 8 boost settings unless your cars just for drag racing since its got all that extra jazz in there to take care of that kind of stuff.

_8OO5TED_ Mentor

_8OO5TED_

Posted
Posted (edited)

it will take a week to confirm a purchase and transfer the money, especially with a weekend in between. you are gonna have to get something local champ. perhaps loan a good working bleed valve from someone until your nengun purchase comes in?!

Edited by _8OO5TED_
Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you aren't running too much boost, it probably is best just replacing your bleeder.

I'm on 12psi and PowerFC.

It fluctuates but i can't tell from the driver seat.

Here's the curve......

post-5823-1167850342.jpg

Edited by Birnie
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

why dont you go with the turbotech bleed valve ($22), and set your desired boost using a boost guage. then the tune will be right for your boost setting, and you can use whichever boost controller you want later, just set it at the same boost level.

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted

Dont be rushed into a EBC just because of your tune next week. Get a turbotech for now and worry about your EBC later. EBC's cost quite a bit so you don’t wont to be rushed into a decision solely based on delivery times.

I have a spare turbotech if you wanna borrow it for a month or so as I have recently upgraded to an greddy e-01 so I can pull the chics like Paul Walker. PM me if you wanna borrow it

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Chris!

You will not get the benefit of the electronic type!!

Save your money. The $20 one works fine for up to about 12psi or more.

Or even a small orifice piece that you replace your solenoid with will give you steady 10psi (If the right size bypass hole). It's bypasses enough air to maintain 10psi..

Only when you upgrade the turbo consider a more elaborate boost controller.

Edited by benl1981
  • 2 weeks later...
YLD-CHLD Collaborator

YLD-CHLD

Posted
Posted (edited)

I already had the Power Fc installed so all that was needed was to get an electronic solenoid hook it up to the standard solenoid plug then attach the signal & actuator hoses.

Then attach a MAP(3bar) sensor to the input on the power fc.

Haltech sell the solenoids for about $120

Then dial in your levels on the hand controller duty cycle & pressure.

& make sure u have the correct cable/loom

Edited by YLD-CHLD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Kinkstaah
      WTB R34 GTR Guard Liners

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • itsmeyo
      WTB R34 GTR Guard Liners

      By itsmeyo · Posted

      Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...