Help Please!

[klenn]

Hi guys can someone please help me because i am stumped on what to do.

heres the deal, my car runs ok when you start it up and its cold then when it warms up and your in traffic it begins to idle hunt and hunts so bad that it stalls itself quite quickly. also when cold it seems to have a miss and judders like bad fuel (but not bad fuel) then you rev it out and it goes away 4 awhile until you are in traffic then it sorta almost like the plugs foul up and wen you drive it misses and jolts and when you stop idle hunts etc.

The car has a greddy intake plenum, big front mount intercooler walbro fuelpump boost controller pod and maybe some other things ive forgotten.

I have bort a can of electric cleaner & cleaned the airflow meter out and had the car running and unplugged the coils and cant seem to notice much difference. also I have sprayed brakeclean along the manifold and on most hoses doesnt make any difference which sorta steers it away from a vacuum leak.

Please someone give me some ideas on what I can do now!

Any help will be much appreciated.

[CAT_SPEW]

Got the same sorta problem with mine. Have you checked to see if your getting enough voltage from your alternator? Also could it be getting too much fuel??

[QRI05E]

These kind of issues can be cause by a variety of things. Start with the smallest possibilities and work your way up. Its either going to be electrical of fuel related... If it mainly happens once the car warms up then its most likely a moving component or a component that changes temp such as injectors, fuel pump & AFM... Check the following:

- Fuel pump (does it seem to be buzzing or struggling)

- Injectors (Nulon injector cleaner + fresh tank of premium)

- Blockages in fuel lines/filter

- Dry soldering in AFM

If all seem fine then perhaps an ECU diagnostic check. I bet most of SAU members will say its your WALBRO shitting itself as its not the most desired pump lol

Good luck!

Regards,

Sarkis

[klenn]

The battery isnt in the best nick but to make sure I have hooked up another battery with jumpers just incase that was the problem.

as for the fuel pump it is virtually new and a new reg was put on as well as alot of hoses when the new intake was put on, the car ran immaculate then has slowly gotten worse and worse over a few drives.

I have 1 question what does dry soldering in the afm mean and when the afm is out how do you remove the plastic lid type thing off it..if you have to?

Also considering i have tryed all these things what are the chances that it will be able to be identifyed on diagnostic?

just incase anyone asks i have also cleaned the aac valve out.

Thanks for your help so far guys hopefully all our ideas can come togather 2 fix this annoying nightmare!

[QRI05E]

Dry soldering is when the solder cracks due to heat and age therefore will provide a poor electric conduction. Yes the black cover will have to be removed to re-solder the contacts. Try a mates AFM first before opening it up.

An ECU diagnostics will show if the ECU is picking up any error codes due to to a faulty electrical component. I think its the first place to start, that way you can eliminate other possible causes.

Cheers

[klenn]

sorry for being annoying but is it normal for a ticking noise to come from near the fuel rail?

[Modena]

sorry for being annoying but is it normal for a ticking noise to come from near the fuel rail?

Yeah mine does it.

As for AFM, the solder cracks easily esp if you have a loose pod filter. So check it out.

[klenn]

ok guys have checked ecu diagnostic comes up with code 55-meaning everything ok, so whats my next step from here im running out of ideas.

what are the usual causes for idle hunting is it a vucum leak or wat???

[Trav33]

I had problems with my car stalling in heat, and idle hunting after it warmed up. It was fine when it was cold. I increased the idle speed a smidgen and it fixed it.

[klenn]

yea tryed that didnt work unfortunatly.

[Cubes]

Idle hunt.

Clean the AAC valve.

--

If its missing when cold throw in a new set of NGK heat range 6 plugs (BCPR6E) and ensure they are gapped to 0.8mm.

[klenn]

hey man i have cleaned it.

it misses when you have driven for awhile and then pull into a servo and turn off and fill up then start it again and drive off it runs like a absolute pig getting worse and worse.

should I pull out a spark plug and check if its fouled up or would this not be the problem, plugs are gapped to 8mm.

[No Crust Racing]

I'd definitely be testing another AFM, there's also a tutorial on here about re-soldering them in the DYI section, it worked for me for a day (on a GTR which are notorious for it) but then came back so I suspect it's shagged. Also try resetting your ECU and have a good hard look for leaks in vacuum hoses.

Good luck and let us know how you go.

[klenn]

opened afm, all looked perfect with the soldering, cleaned it and put it back, also reset the ecu, no luck.

where should I go from here should I still try another afm?

[No Crust Racing]

It's unusual that the ECU reports no issues when you're getting this issue. If the ECU is correct then it sounds more like a leak somewhere, it may be wrth having a reputable mechanic look the car over. If possible, test someone elses AFM and possibly CAS as well.

Keep at it bud these things get sorted =)

[klenn]

It's unusual that the ECU reports no issues when you're getting this issue. If the ECU is correct then it sounds more like a leak somewhere, it may be wrth having a reputable mechanic look the car over. If possible, test someone elses AFM and possibly CAS as well.

Keep at it bud these things get sorted =)

yea talked to a auto sparkie he said try someone elses bov just incase theres a leak in that and have and its fine so im booking it in with abit of luck shouldnt be too much of a majour

cheers for your help so far.