Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a regretful sale, of my near new Microtech ECU, plug and play adapter and laptop dongle, its only been in my car a month, but xmas is left me a bit behind so i need the money to pay some bills.

ECU is still in my car located in Brisbane, i can show you it working and running the car if needed, or i can post to anywhere at the buyers expence

All of the above was purchased for $1695 just on a month ago direct from Microtech, The ECU has a lite tune on it for the basic mods, Bigger turbo, 15psi, fuel pump, full exhaust and cam gears.

I am looking for $1400 for the three items, like i said there close to brand new so this is a good deal for anyone needed and aftermarket ecu

You can contact me on email at [email protected] or msn on [email protected]

Ask any questions you have i will happily answer them, once again this is a regretful sale and needs to go quickly.

Cameron

Edited by murrayis

it was making 270 rw hp on 15psi but very very lean but that was because of the stock injectors, on 11 - 12psi we left it at 225hp there abouts.

It made alot of diff up top, and really smoothed out the transition onto boost, it is making 225hp at 5200 just after it comes on full boost

so it has the rb20 adapter, std map sensor? and does it have the microtec ignitor or not? the *laptop dongle* is the cable for lap top tune? if so do you have software? still undr warrenty i assume.

if this is an rb20 ecu...if i wanted to put it in an rb25, i'd have to re-tune it?

is wired in or just plug in?

Put it this was the base map that microtech sends with the ecu for the rb20det is for the rb25det, all the difference is in the plug and play adapter and yes of course would have to fiddle with the tune as you would with any ecu swpapping between engine types, you might find it wouldrun without any problem then again you just don't know

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...