Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

since i have a complicated boot instal going in soon for the car, im just wondering how hard/possible it is to relocate the battery to the engine bay where the other power section is? i could have even more room since the washer bottle will be removed... this will make access when needed to it shitloads easier etc...

how big of a job would it be for a n auto elec to do.

cheers...ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150183-relocating-battery-in-r33/
Share on other sites

If you get a chance, check out a R33 sedan engine bay, as they have the battery located there. The battery is on the left hand side. Possibly even different, window washer bottle and readiator overflow as well.

cheers

Evil

I honestly reakon it would be easy, once you find a location for it. You'll have the standard thick cable gong to your boot for your audio system. Even if you replace the cable, you'll have the conduate to protect the new cable.

If you get a chance, check out a R33 sedan engine bay, as they have the battery located there. The battery is on the left hand side. Possibly even different, window washer bottle and readiator overflow as well.

cheers

Evil

I have a s1 R33 sedan and battery is in the boot, In fact before i got mine i looked at 3 other sedans all with the battery in the boot.

if i was you, i wouldnt eveen relocate to the engine bay.

i have attached some pics that show where my battery is now, on the drivers side of the boot, tucked away and will have some holes drilled soon into the chassis to have a securing peice put around.

all that happens is you extend/replace the positive wire and ground wire, and then whola, battery moved.

post-31466-1168220599.jpg

post-31466-1168220614.jpg

if i was you, i wouldnt eveen relocate to the engine bay.

i have attached some pics that show where my battery is now, on the drivers side of the boot, tucked away and will have some holes drilled soon into the chassis to have a securing peice put around.

all that happens is you extend/replace the positive wire and ground wire, and then whola, battery moved.

the first image I like. teh second - for teh love of god PUT A BATTERY MOUNT IN THERE!!! thats a fire about to happen!

thats pretty bodge... plus like i stated in my 1st post, the reason i wanted to move it to the engine bay is because the stereo going in the boot, no matter where in the boot i can put my battery theres no point, i might as well leave it where it is now no difference...

ben...

Its not too hard really it would be the exact opposite of what i did to move my battery to the boot in my 32.

There was a thread about it a while ago (cant remember what forum) where a guy move his battery from the boot to the engine bay in his 33.

I'll try and find it and post it up for you :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...