Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples

Another day... Another issue with my car...

I own a 1993 R33 Skyline GTST with the RB25DET

Ok in the last 3 days, i've completely redone my interior and my engine, dropped it in, bolted everything back together, ran all new hoses etc etc. It looks mint. haha. Replaced all oils, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, gearbox oil, bleed the brakes, everything.

Today was the day to kick it over 4 the first time. These were my problems:

Problem 1: kept blowing a fuse.

Reason: Z32 AFM was connected up wrong

Issue: Resolved...

Problem 2: Car wont kick over

Reason: The Apexi Power FC (with HC)

I tried it with the stock ecu, car kicked over fine, sounded great.

didn't drive, just let it purr.

I thought maybe that my apexi power fc and hc were stuffed, but they are brand new, so i plugged it into my mates r33 and it worked fine, but for wat ever reason i can't get it to kick over in mine.

My assumption is that its not get enough power to the power fc.

I read on an faq that some r33's for watever reason run half gauge wiring to the ecu

which is fine 4 the standard ecu, but not enough for the fc.

If theres anyone who has experienced similar problems like this, any help u could give would be massively

appreciated. Or better yet, if anyone is in melbourne and could offer a hand to help get it started that would be sensational.

If u would like to contact me via mobile, my number is 0419 15 45 15

Otherwise i usually jump onto sau at least once a day haha.

Thanks heaps everyone...

Guesty (simon)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150404-power-fc-aaarrggghhh-hehe/
Share on other sites

from the faq:

My car won't start when I plug in the PowerFC, but the stock ecu works fine

First when dealing with a new PowerFC install and the car does not start there are a few basics to check;

# Check the PowerFC to car loom connector

# Check the warning lights on the dash, do they come up?

# On the hand controller, goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK, are any sensors highlighted in black? (Shouldn't be)

# Make sure you disable the Boost Control Kit if you aren't using it

# Make sure you have the right airflow meter selected (if you have a non standard one)

# Make sure you have correct injector settings (if you have non standard ones)

# Check all fuses

# Listen for clicking relays

# Check for burning smells near the ECU and or inside the ECU

# Inspect the ECU itself for physical damage or burn marks (open it up)

Finally we have seen on a few skylines that the car works fine with the stock ecu but not the with PowerFC. It has been traced back to a missing fuse. The missing fuse is on the left side in the R33 GTST and its at position #7. According to the diagram it is Engine Control. Somehow the stock ecu works if this fuse is missing but the PowerFC doesn't

See the diagram here for "Engine Control" which is a 10AMP fuse.

use a multi-meter, find which side of ecu is low on voltage, run new power to the ecu from fuse box in engine bay - its on ign switch.

Im sure you can find the rb25 pinout on here some were.

altho I have a question,

Does the H/C display anything with just the ignition on, and does the lights on dash work?

Ok when the ecu was in my mates r33, the hc was fully functional

when it was in mine, the hc kinda froze with the apexi symbol on the screen

Not sure if that means anything, i cant get to the menu in my car

quote name='cameron' date='7 Jan 2007, 06:41 PM' post='2800992']

use a multi-meter, find which side of ecu is low on voltage, run new power to the ecu from fuse box in engine bay - its on ign switch.

Im sure you can find the rb25 pinout on here some were.

altho I have a question,

Does the H/C display anything with just the ignition on, and does the lights on dash work?

Finally we have seen on a few skylines that the car works fine with the stock ecu but not the with PowerFC. It has been traced back to a missing fuse. The missing fuse is on the left side in the R33 GTST and its at position #7. According to the diagram it is Engine Control. Somehow the stock ecu works if this fuse is missing but the PowerFC doesn't

See the diagram here for "Engine Control" which is a 10AMP fuse.

Mint, i tried this theory, was missing the fuse, now it kicks over.

hc works perfectly, car started.

The idoling was a bit crazy at first but the longer i leave it, it seems to be tuning itself.

its settling down and becoming calm

is it supposed to?

wat do i do know basically?

the problem you had and what to do once it starts it covered in the faq

read the install procedure in it. covers everything to do and what to check once it starts and idles as well, also covers the self learn idle procedure

On the hand controller, goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK, are any sensors highlighted in black? (Shouldn't be)

Hey bud

i checked this, there was one thing highlight black

boost i think?

wat do i do about this.

the car seems to wanna stall now when i started it

the idle is all over the place

its in the faq, keep reading

i've been reading the faq, and attempting to follow it, but my car seems to stall everytime i try the self learning process.

i get to like 1 minute then it just dies, wtf? lol

am i better off just getting a dyno tuner to fix it

wat sort of price would i be looking at?

i've been reading the faq, and attempting to follow it, but my car seems to stall everytime i try the self learning process.

i get to like 1 minute then it just dies, wtf? lol

am i better off just getting a dyno tuner to fix it

wat sort of price would i be looking at?

is the power fc boost control kit connected?

using different boost control?

turn off boost control in the power fc menu.

No there is a setting in the menu for the power fc's own boost control kit.

this needs to be turned off if your not using it. i beleive it will make the car stall. which it did when i put a power fc into my gti-r

No there is a setting in the menu for the power fc's own boost control kit.

this needs to be turned off if your not using it. i beleive it will make the car stall. which it did when i put a power fc into my gti-r

just turned it off and it still stalls?

read the FAQ again, it covers why it may insta-stall each time.

make sure the AFM is set properly

you need to do the self idle learn procedure again and follow the instructions (again in the FAQ) and do the complete procedure, and don't short skip it. be sure to test it before you say "ok its done"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...