Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think I remember seeing the comparisons you mentioned, just remember something about the k&n's being the highest flow but not best filtering. I change my oil every 3000k's so I figured i'd go for flow over filtering....i dunno it all just seems to ring a bell...

yes :laugh:

thats where I've had 2 on order for like a month :laugh:

3k? why? what oil are u using?

Basically its a waste of time and money. Nearly all good (even group III) oils will go well over 3k OCIs under normal driving conditions. Track work, hmm different story and different grade required.

But if thats what u wanna do, thats cool. Just dont use any good oil as any decent oil with good addatives wont have time to do anything.

As for good oil filters, Mobil1 are pretty much the best off the shelf unit. Never bought one locally though. The K&N is of the same construction with a different filter media which doesn't filter as fine as the M1. Still better than most.

Here I found some more info

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/ar...ilterstudy.html

3k? why? what oil are u using?

Been experimenting with different oils etc. finding something good to use, benifits/downfalls of each. I found the mobil1 oil filters to be good but seem to get a more stable oil pressure with the K&N. The engine is fairly new too changed it the first couple of times just to make sure there were no particles or anything in the oil, cos the first time i changed it after I got the car it was pretty nasty. Although now I seem to be burning/leaking oil need to work out where and why, got a feeling it's of one of the turbo lines :laugh:

Been experimenting with different oils etc. finding something good to use, benifits/downfalls of each. I found the mobil1 oil filters to be good but seem to get a more stable oil pressure with the K&N. The engine is fairly new too changed it the first couple of times just to make sure there were no particles or anything in the oil, cos the first time i changed it after I got the car it was pretty nasty. Although now I seem to be burning/leaking oil need to work out where and why, got a feeling it's of one of the turbo lines :P

yeah for breaking in an engine I guess u were using some mineral oil...good to make a few quick chnanges as u suggested.

Good info on the K&N. I might get myself one and try it out as I'm doing a oil chnage soon also.

How much oil u buring? rings not sealing? oil to thick? some oil usage is acceptable.

About 500ml over 3000k's :( There's pretty much no smoke out the exhaust regardless...ever of any type so I dun think the rings are leaking. Oil i'm using at the moment is a full syn 5w30. Although I am still trying to work out some pressure issues as well, as I always seem to have 2kg/cm2ish regardless of rpm...I was under the impression oil pressure changes with rpm. Not sure yet if this is a true reading or an sensor/gauge fault....

About 500ml over 3000k's :( There's pretty much no smoke out the exhaust regardless...ever of any type so I dun think the rings are leaking. Oil i'm using at the moment is a full syn 5w30. Although I am still trying to work out some pressure issues as well, as I always seem to have 2kg/cm2ish regardless of rpm...I was under the impression oil pressure changes with rpm. Not sure yet if this is a true reading or an sensor/gauge fault....

If ur loosing oil and its not leaking anywhere then its being burnt. Probably not enough to notice any smoke.

I have been quoted from an SAE tech paper that 1qt every 1000miles is accetable However this has bee topic of discussion for some time. THerefore according to this u are within acceptable levels.

From memory, the oil pressure should be about middle @ 3000 rpm normally (think thats 4) . If ur unsure wack on a new pressure guage and check it out.

If ur using a 5W30...I would have thought that was perfect weight for a street driven car that gives great startup protection. I'm using a base 10W40 blended with 5W30 after some usage also.

If ur loosing oil and its not leaking anywhere then its being burnt. Probably not enough to notice any smoke.

I don't wanna know that, it's practically a brand new engine it shouldn't be burning any :wave: When they first built it they had a problem with a couple of cylinders leaking but the engine was pulled appart again and new rings put in and they put 1000k's or so on it to run it in and assured me i wouldn't have a problem. I'll be taking it to racepace within the next couple of months when i have the new fuel system in so will see what they think.

yeh 5w30 seems to be good, though might go to a 10w60 or something for the track when i finally get there :mad:

I don't wanna know that, it's practically a brand new engine it shouldn't be burning any :) When they first built it they had a problem with a couple of cylinders leaking but the engine was pulled appart again and new rings put in and they put 1000k's or so on it to run it in and assured me i wouldn't have a problem. I'll be taking it to racepace within the next couple of months when i have the new fuel system in so will see what they think.

yeh 5w30 seems to be good, though might go to a 10w60 or something for the track when i finally get there :)

yeah for the track and more extreeme oil temps you will need a thicker oil. 60 is common.

'

As them what oil they are using to break in ur engine. I have herrd or people using full syn. oil for new engines...not good to bed down those rings.

Anyway back to the K&N oil filter stuff.

I just pulled apart two jap filters, one a Nissan one and one for my Mitsi. They were of high construction, metal end plates and good silcon bypass value, as aposed to the rubber. Tey have a good number of pleats (not to many to restrict flow) and used a syn. filter...not paper. Which filters better.

However I have done more more research on the K&N.

Conclusion, its one of the better filters out there for filtration and flow. I will be using one on my next oil change, however I must say the OEM Nissans looked good also so there is no drama there IMO.

Here are some links I read recently.

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lub...on-oilpart5.htm

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/ar...ters.html#avoid

yeah for the track and more extreeme oil temps you will need a thicker oil. 60 is common.

'

As them what oil they are using to break in ur engine. I have herrd or people using full syn. oil for new engines...not good to bed down those rings.

Anyway back to the K&N oil filter stuff.

The engine was built by Mercury in Brisbane from what I have heard they are one of the better workshops up there had a chat to them before I bought the car about a number of things but that was one question I didn't ask, might give them a ring tomorrow and find out.

lol we have gone kinda off topic :O

I think the best thing about the k&n filters is definatley the hex head, after taking off the pureone one the other day K&N FTW! So much easier, especially on a GTR, heaps easier to access the filter on gtst's so not so much of an issue......

The engine was built by Mercury in Brisbane from what I have heard they are one of the better workshops up there had a chat to them before I bought the car about a number of things but that was one question I didn't ask, might give them a ring tomorrow and find out.

lol we have gone kinda off topic :O

I think the best thing about the k&n filters is definatley the hex head, after taking off the pureone one the other day K&N FTW! So much easier, especially on a GTR, heaps easier to access the filter on gtst's so not so much of an issue......

yeah I read about that...thats what convinced me!

***goes down to order some tomorrow!! hehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...