Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R34 gt-t coupe needs some maintenance work done. It's done 90k klms

i need

1) The timing belt changed quickly. been quoted round $600

2) New windshield installed

3) And possibly new coilpacks

I've been getting different quotes from most places.. any ideas roughly how much i should be paying for each of these...

Also 100kms service is coming up, what should i be looking at? Some places charge a lot but do a tonne of unnecessary work..

thanks CT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151163-r34-maintenance-issues/
Share on other sites

Also 100kms service is coming up, what should i be looking at? Some places charge a lot but do a tonne of unnecessary work..

Transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant, diff oil, fuel filter, air filter, oil filter. The more of this you can do on your own obviously the better. optionally have a power run and check your a/f ratios.

As above get the water pump done while the belt's off.

I paid a lot more than $600 to get mine changed - I did get the idler pulley etc changed at the same time - there was about $450 in parts from memory. $600 sounds fine. Agree you should change the water pump also.

I got my all my belts and water pump changed for $400.

I think $600 is a big quote, but if they do it correctly and are well known for the competence, why not.

You get what you pay for, sometimes yuo get a bargain, but most of the time they are hard to come by.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks man, I appreciate that. I'll keep it in mind going forward, important to know.
    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
×
×
  • Create New...