Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$800?

Thats sounds a little too cheap... you sure it isnt some dodge copy?

They retail around $1700 normally... even i couldnt get one for $800 and i would be paying less than RRP

$800?

Thats sounds a little too cheap... you sure it isnt some dodge copy?

They retail around $1700 normally... even i couldnt get one for $800 and i would be paying less than RRP

That's exactly what i was thinking.............................................but thought i'd keep my mouth shut :O

Hopefully it's not some low quality item that pops at 15psi, or after a couple of dyno runs :O

no its new... genuine brand new garrett direct form garrett... see if you can find someone whos willing to do this favour for you and lives in america... only problem is i have to wait 2 weeks or more for it. but for this turbo i can wait. a long while.

Only question is right. Is this the right replacement turbo I am ordering? its in T3 flavour and im going for the 0.63 version for quicker top power to rev. Can i still install and run this on the same ECU? (stock)

no its new... genuine brand new garrett direct form garrett... see if you can find someone whos willing to do this favour for you and lives in america... only problem is i have to wait 2 weeks or more for it. but for this turbo i can wait. a long while.

Only question is right. Is this the right replacement turbo I am ordering? its in T3 flavour and im going for the 0.63 version for quicker top power to rev. Can i still install and run this on the same ECU? (stock)

hrmmm do be carefull with this person who's willing to do a favour for you.

I'm unsure exactly what you mean by GT3040. When you say GT3040 to myself and many others that means the GT3082r. 82r being the 52trim 82mm GT40 comp wheel paired with the GT30 60mm turbine wheel.

If this is the case its a poor match. You really are better off with the GT3076r 56t 6 blade 600hp turbo. This is the 'true' GT30r and will make ~300rwkw if not a touch more on good fuel and retain good response. Its very similiar (apart from comp and turbine housing variations) as the HKS3037S. In twin form they have made 700rwkw on a jap GTR and a friends R33 GTST (stock bottom end, thick head gasket) 323rwkw.

IF you want to run around with the .63 turbine a/r your best bet would to step down the compressor to the 52t gt37 variant.

Dropping a large compressor wheel on a restrictive hot side is silly as you won't make a great deal more peak power (if any) but response and spool will suffer. The car will be laggy/peaky for the given power it is making. Definitely not good for a street car.

With that turbo your also going to need:

PowerFC - $1100

Injectors - $800

Fuel Pump - $300

FMIC - $400

Thicker headgasket - $200

Tuning - $300

+ labour if your not mechanically minded and unable to do the work yourself.

The thicker headgasket is recommended, you 'can' get away with the 9:1 comp with lots of boost BUT it really is on a knive edge, give it a little safety and drop the comp ratio slightly if you want to push 300rwkw on stock pistons/comp ratio.

OTHERWISE you will be up for a motor rebuild in no time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...