Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am just about to purchase one of these puppies brand new for $845. Anyone got any ideas whether it is a good buy.

Has anyone actually got one? Can you give me your review.... feedback...? anything...?

http://www.jvc-australia.com/JVC/client/c_...&prodID=173

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151478-jvc-kw-avx700-in-dash-dvd/
Share on other sites

wow thats cheap man... I just picked up the KD-AVX2 (10cm tv screen one built in?!) $740.. so u got a good deal!!

I dont have much of an idea about jvc but supposedly there range is crap but I got mine based on features feedback and looks .. just the installers said it was crap.. but who cares :P

wow thats cheap man... I just picked up the KD-AVX2 (10cm tv screen one built in?!) $740

got mine for $600 yesterday...

3.5" is just a toy...too small to view porn tho'

as for the 2 din set..looks good, but the face isnt detacable?...so it just sits there teasing the thieves

a fold-away/popup one that some1 mentioned ^^^ would be more ideal IMO

:no:

Would be nice to moitior eng parameters on the screens as well eh.

You could run a carputer to take the signals from your ECU and output them via RCA/Video cables into the head unit, not sure what the screen quality would be like though. Computer screens have much better resolution and use VGA cables, as opposed to tv displays which dont have the same resolution and use RCA/SVideo standards...

Haha..! I just got mine.. I got mine for about $650 because it was the last working sample.. the plate is missing, but so far so good.

Wow, bloody good price.

Post a review... whats the unit like?

What amps, etc are you running from it?

Wow, bloody good price.

Post a review... whats the unit like?

What amps, etc are you running from it?

Yeah will do for sure. Still haven't installed yet though. I'm still looking for a decent set of splits and rears and will get everything installed in one go. Have also decided to amp the front/rears... considering a Kicker IX404 4 CH ... Anyone had any experience with these before? Will get the amp first then find the speakers to match...

As for the boot i've got a Kicker KX200.2 Amp and Kenwood 12" sub... not installed either...

Any advice...??

Wow, bloody good price.

Post a review... whats the unit like?

What amps, etc are you running from it?

I've got a 12" pioneer sub, running off an alpine mono block amp.. with a pair of JL splits at the front and standard rear speakers. Its sounds pretty decent.. although wouldnt mind hearing how it'd all go with decent rear speakers.

but the quality and sound is awesome.

i bought my setup, w/ wiring, for $1600

The screen quality is great! Although I havent really seen any others, but during the day when I'm driving.. and I glance down at it, I can see the foo fighters rockin out pretty well.

I guess the cons of it are that you cant detach the face.. and passengers dont understand how new it is and they keep touching it and don't get that I'm still in the paranoia stage where a finger smudge will elssen the life of the screen.. hahah.. idiots!

I haven't come across any flaws as yet.. but, for the price I got it for.. I don't think I can complain!

Edited by S T A R 3 3
Yeah will do for sure. Still haven't installed yet though. I'm still looking for a decent set of splits and rears and will get everything installed in one go. Have also decided to amp the front/rears... considering a Kicker IX404 4 CH ... Anyone had any experience with these before? Will get the amp first then find the speakers to match...

As for the boot i've got a Kicker KX200.2 Amp and Kenwood 12" sub... not installed either...

Any advice...??

get that one IF it is a decent price. heaps of grunt.

Thanks Chris... Whats a decent price for one of these second hand??? $100 -150?? is 200 way too over the top??

what condition is it in and what is the advertised price?

I just won it on ebay. Auction said "excellent working order, A1 condition." Total inc. shipping is $130. Seems pretty reasonable doesn't it...?

if it works - yes.

you gotta be kidding.. cheap as chips!

For anyone else thats interested there is another one on ebay with no bids yet starting at $85 with a Buy it Now for $150.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...