Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

just tried doing a service .... oil filter was abit hard to turn ... after alot of effort and few tools my oldman squashed the filter removing it but also broke the BOLT that the oil filter screws onto..

now there is half a bolt left inside the oil pump thing where the oil filter fits into and half we have in our hands..... what do we do to get da oda piece out or.... how should we go about this now? put in da towel and get a mechanic to look at it or what?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151645-oil-filter-bolt-broke/
Share on other sites

you need a new oil filter bracket. your whole oil filter bracket/cooler comes off. if you want a proper fix then replace the oil filter bracket.

heres the part out of the workshop manual:

post-13452-1168751355.jpg

the part shouldnt cost too much 2nd hand, just get one off a wrecker (make sure you clean and blow it out before putting it on!!), might be a bit of a bitch to get to though.

its split in half.... maybe an inch is left inside and then the other half with the nut and bolt..

oil relocation ?

its a bloody tough job , to change the whole thing, how long would replace it usually take. oil relocation kits approx price wise and reliability what would be the better option?

p.s what would be the better option we've already taken the 4 screws out but its not comming off is there a sealant or sumthing that we have to remove ???

Edited by Zas)-(

there usually is a bit of sealer.

get a heat gun or a hair dryer and heat it up and see if that works.

half of the thread isnt much, especially when the oil filter is tightened by hand. i wouldnt risk using the broken thread unless you were completely confident that it would hold.

there usually is a bit of sealer.

get a heat gun or a hair dryer and heat it up and see if that works.

half of the thread isnt much, especially when the oil filter is tightened by hand. i wouldnt risk using the broken thread unless you were completely confident that it would hold.

no way its only got a bolt of lcm popping out of the actuall bracket thats left we are trying to get the bolt out but no way cant do anything for it...

yeah we could try a heat gun , we dont have to remove the actual oil cooler from the filter bracket itself?

I'm just wondering, for future reference sake so that I don't do it to my car:

The oil filter is normally on not that tight (how tight can you possible tighten it since you tighten by hand, without any tools).

How tight was it, and how on earth did the oil fitler bolt break?

What removal methods did you try before you tried to squash the fitler in. Did you try sprayin git down with carby/brake cleaner to remove all the oil so you can get a grip and use a grippy pad (those you buy from the supermarket)?

it was the mechanic,.

we used the claw device u find in repco and the strap on oil filter so we have tools to take it off not some cheap oil wrench from kmart.

but these tools usually arent required most are done by hand.

...i reckon the bolt broke because of so much heat.. like manifold studs break i reckon the bolt was going soon too from pressure n heat..

hahaha wheres ur car kinks i'l lsend some1 to take good care of it :O

Ouch, hope it doesn't cost you too much to replace man.

Oil filter relocation kit, i believe, is a must on any Skyline (or any car for that matter) Makes its a 60 second job. Check below for instance, bolt one where the filter used to go, the other has the filter screw onto it, place it where you want.

gtrremoilfilterkit.jpg

Anti seize on the thread (loctite make a product for instance) and a smear of oil on the filters rubber o ring makes it a lot easier for next time.

- M

I have zero problems removing my oil filter by hand. On a GTR, maybe things are a bit tight.. on a GTS-t there is loads of room!

I just get in there with both hands and give it a twist. Only do it up as tight as I can by hand too so it's not too hard to remove next time. Rule of thumb is you always need a bigger tool than you used to do something up to get it undone again. If you put your oil filter on with a wrench you're f**ked.

I use a rubber glove to remove mine. For a little added grip so it can be done with one hand and so I don't get burnys.

Only ever do it up 2/3rds of a turn as the instructions state.

IF its stuck on simply smack a screw driver through the end and turn. :happy:

I'd say its broke because it was probably pushed rather than turned. Either that OR it was tightened up instead of loosened. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...