Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone got any recommendations on courier companies for medium sized packages. I tried the company that I used to get a bonnet from Sydney down, $50 for a bonnet, $200 for some guards :). Anyone recommend a courier company that can do transport for a reasonable price?

Edited by Sarumatix
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151911-transport-companies/
Share on other sites

Wow I call up couriers please and they are like you need coupons rar rar rar.. i'm like wtf I Just want to get a box couriered! then I call up samson they are like

we aren't couriers we do interstate..

i'm like yah.. that's what I want.. then the woman is like

well I can't really do anything I need to wait for the boss to come in.

What time is that?

Ohh sometime this afternoon..

WTF?

I transported a car from QLD and it was much easier than this :S.

problem that most couriers/transport mobs have is thier drivers will arrive at any given time not at the sender or recievers convienience, if your anywhere near Hiedelberg you can use my factory as a send point but if its going to a resedential address then the reciever may need to pickup at a depo or be contactable for the driver

just shoot me a PM if you want me to send it for you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...