Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I haven't found anyone who's even mentioned it before but I'm curios... can you put the 1UZ into a toyota MR2?

The only barriers I could think of are:

1) will it fit in the bay?

2) can it be mated to the std gear-box / what gear-box would you be able to use?

quick, simple question but i'd be interested in some detailed answers... there's got to be a reason no-one's done it i suppose but i'd like to know why.

Cheers,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151980-toyota-tech-heads/
Share on other sites

Why would you put a V6 camry motor in a MR2 stupid yanks

remember the Camry ads from the late 90's when the Camry accellerated faster than the AU XR6 Falcons? imagine what it could do in a 1000kg car! Here's a link to a wbsite dedicated to the conversion

http://www.v6mr2.com/

Here's a Mk1 MR2 with a supercharged 3.8 V6 GM Motor (similar to our VS-VY motor)

http://www.djedwhite.com/p/photo.php?dir=1200/mr2

how much cash do u have? only a mr2 gear box will work because mr2 is toyotas only mid mount engine car. u can get massive powerfigures out of 3sgtes any way. there was a 600 ps one in HPI a while ago

Not that much :yes: ha ha!

no, the reasoning behind the thought was simply to have a naturally aspirated engine that had the brute force without all the modifications... you could run the 1UZ in a car that light in std trim and have very satisfying results.

Ultimately, around 3~400HP at the flywheel would be the goal but i don't want to have to spend 10's of thousands of dollars to get such a low output (not that that's a low figure for that engine but i can't justify in my mind, the cost of that kind of figure).

opinions?

yoshimitsu9: was thinking you could mate up a porsche box or something but again... costs start to get a lil stupid.

So, basically, what people are saying is that the limitation is the space in the engine bay?

you want 400 flywheel horspower, and you think it will be cheaper to do an engine swap and then tune it for power?

movey vs performance, the 3S will probly be better than the V8, with the added bonus of not performing an engine swap/chopping the chassis/retarded weight balance of a V8 over the rear wheels.

edit - i dont get it, did you want to specifically keep the car N/A?

Edited by VB-
you want 400 flywheel horspower, and you think it will be cheaper to do an engine swap and then tune it for power?

movey vs performance, the 3S will probly be better than the V8, with the added bonus of not performing an engine swap/chopping the chassis/retarded weight balance of a V8 over the rear wheels.

edit - i dont get it, did you want to specifically keep the car N/A?

sorry, poor explanation on my behalf.

if i where to keep the 3s-gte, i'd like around 400 hp at the fly but i thought, with the v8... standard power would be more than enough in a car that light (working on a power to weight plus the fact that the displacement etc in the 1uz would make a pretty meaty ride in an mr2)

also, if i went the v8, i could stick with an N/A option which (IMO) would be better maintenance and general expense wise. where as, staying with the std engine... i'd be upping boost, frequent oil changes, risk of blown turbo's, etc etc... you know what i mean?

basically, i think it'd be nicer to have roughly the same power out of a standard N/A engine than out of a modified / std turbo one.

that make sense?

there's also the problem of keeping an mr2 engine intake temps cool because of the set-up they have (intercooler replacements etc are limited) so, upping the hp on a turbo engine (assuming that's a result of more boost etc) brings concerns of "can i keep it cool enough not to go bang?" lol!

Edited by DJ984

so... ok, here's another question to throw out there.

what's the quickers / cheapest / easiest way to get good power out of the mr2 (let's say a goal of 300 hp at the fly) whilst not raising concerns to things like intake temps etc.

whether that be drop in the v6 or tweak a few things in the std engine...

what's your opinions?

I don't want to fk around with modifying chassis and getting stupid amounts of engineering etc etc.

anyone know where to get a 3s-gte crate engine? like the tomei nissan engines you can buy?

and opinions on whether a better option would be an sr20det... keeping in mind the cooling issue

Edited by DJ984

easiest way to get the power your wanting is by tuning the 3S-GTE, and it will be the cheapest by far. supposedly the stock bottom end is one of the weak links to over come, but shouldnt be a problem with 300hp at the fly.

as for cooling, there are a few options. the one i would be looking at personally, is a liquid to air exchanger. if you've seen the video of the GTTT, you'll know they can work well, try to emulate that system, although price will be a bit of an issue here, overall it will still be far cheaper IMO. even still, there should be other water-air set up's for MR2's.

my advice now is to look to jap tuning. i've seen a few MR2's in the tens, on street tires, look there for advice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...