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Improving The Skyline R33 Gtr Vspec

ike

By ike,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Ye, this is motor performance section.

The track racers generally dont get past this section a lot, and FI is so active topics drop off pages fast. Just the nature of the section.

Those who play with diffs and what not as in the Motorsport/Drivetrain areas :P

nfi Community Regular

nfi

Posted
Posted

I my humble opinion the t517z 8.0cm are too small for a stroker. I would go hks2530's. They will come on boost around 3000rpm with a stroker. The mines gtr use them and it is one of the fastest in the world around a track that is still a street trim car. You could even go the hks gtrs. I know a r33 gtr that has a 2.8 tomei stroker and gtrs' and comes on boost about 3300rpm and makes 400rwkw. Note your gearbox can become fragile at over 350rwkw if you give it a hard time. Especially the series 1 boxes.

You said earlier you bought a pfc with the boost solenoid and that it is self learning... I am not sure who told you that but that is incorrect. I am sure you and your tuner now know this, but all computers are only as good as the person that tunes it so make sure you don't skimp on that.

If you want to compete in dutton etc your priority should be suspension as power is no good if you can't get it to the ground. I would suggest some bilstein PS9's which will set you back about 4k but will do the job very well. If you want to spend less I would get tein monoflex. Swaybars are a must in my opinion. I would suggest some whiteline bars. You are also going to need castor and camber. You can do that with either adjustable rose jointed arms which are the 'best' solution for the track or with bushes which won't give you as much adjustment but will avoid the rattling that goes with rose jointed arms. If you are not sure what you are talking about my suggestion would be to talk to 'Sydneykid' on these forums as he is extremely knowledgable and can provide a solution that will work.

In regard to diffs I would get 1.5 way's front and rear as 2 ways are just too harsh and make the car even more inclined to understeer if you put it in the rear. If you put a 2 way in the front it will make it difficult to steer.

I would stick to nismo diffs if it was me and you also need to be aware that aftermarket mechanical diffs are very noisey and make horrible noises.

In regard to the clutch it is not something I would skimp on as you really want to be able to control the take up easily and smoothly to drive the car well especially in tight events like dutton. I would get a nismo super copper mix or an osgiken. Yes they are expensive but they are for a reason.

Hope that helps.

ike Collaborator

ike

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I my humble opinion the t517z 8.0cm are too small for a stroker. I would go hks2530's. They will come on boost around 3000rpm with a stroker. The mines gtr use them and it is one of the fastest in the world around a track that is still a street trim car. You could even go the hks gtrs. I know a r33 gtr that has a 2.8 tomei stroker and gtrs' and comes on boost about 3300rpm and makes 400rwkw. Note your gearbox can become fragile at over 350rwkw if you give it a hard time. Especially the series 1 boxes.

You said earlier you bought a pfc with the boost solenoid and that it is self learning... I am not sure who told you that but that is incorrect. I am sure you and your tuner now know this, but all computers are only as good as the person that tunes it so make sure you don't skimp on that.

If you want to compete in dutton etc your priority should be suspension as power is no good if you can't get it to the ground. I would suggest some bilstein PS9's which will set you back about 4k but will do the job very well. If you want to spend less I would get tein monoflex. Swaybars are a must in my opinion. I would suggest some whiteline bars. You are also going to need castor and camber. You can do that with either adjustable rose jointed arms which are the 'best' solution for the track or with bushes which won't give you as much adjustment but will avoid the rattling that goes with rose jointed arms. If you are not sure what you are talking about my suggestion would be to talk to 'Sydneykid' on these forums as he is extremely knowledgable and can provide a solution that will work.

In regard to diffs I would get 1.5 way's front and rear as 2 ways are just too harsh and make the car even more inclined to understeer if you put it in the rear. If you put a 2 way in the front it will make it difficult to steer.

I would stick to nismo diffs if it was me and you also need to be aware that aftermarket mechanical diffs are very noisey and make horrible noises.

In regard to the clutch it is not something I would skimp on as you really want to be able to control the take up easily and smoothly to drive the car well especially in tight events like dutton. I would get a nismo super copper mix or an osgiken. Yes they are expensive but they are for a reason.

Hope that helps.

Hi

Yeah I know about the mines car and the 2530 but every man and his dog has those turbos . The T517s 8cm are the ones for me at the moment and have seen some similar Japanese cars running them with success ( ie Garage Defend r33). More punch out of corners while 2530s are too linear. And lets face it the driver has a lot to do with it.

I actually did buy a kit from Sydney kid for 2.5k but have not received it so am getting my money back (2 months overdue) was supposed to coincide with my rebuild but he has let me down and f*#ked up my plans so has forced me to buy some other suspension

He is juggling 2 many balls trying to please everyone when the reverse is happening .

Engine block changed out for a new 24U block fully prepped along with head .Plus much more to much to write here.

Brakes and gearbox upgraded to handle the extra ps.

Already have twinplate nismo Cumix.

The only thing left is the diffs which I can get done at a later date if necessary will see first how the active rear goes (probably not) and a roll cage.

Think I have spent enough money by now so will lay off for a bit.

Sure I could buy a good rs porsche like my mate for a little more than what I have spent at the end of the day.

But GTRs do it for me and now we can compete heh heh.

Thanks for the info on the diffs though .

Why a 2way in the front??? (I don’t know much about diffs learning fast)

SLIPPERY Experienced

SLIPPERY

Posted
Posted

he said NOT to use a 2 way at the front

Front wheels like to turn at different speeds, obviously because they have different turning circles compared to one another

2 ways like to turn the wheels at the same speed, therefore the inside wheel has to turn faster than it wants to and will skip and make it very hard and dangerous to turn.

ike Collaborator

ike

Posted
  • Author
Posted
he said NOT to use a 2 way at the front

Front wheels like to turn at different speeds, obviously because they have different turning circles compared to one another

2 ways like to turn the wheels at the same speed, therefore the inside wheel has to turn faster than it wants to and will skip and make it very hard and dangerous to turn.

Thanks Slippery for that correction and the info

cheers

Ike

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