Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, lately Ive been having problems changing into gear, its been getting harder and harder until finally its at a stage where its so stiff its pretty much un-driveable.

the car is a R32 GTS-t Manual, roughly 150rwkw and stock clutch.

so symptoms, like i said really hard to change into all gears, but mainly when stationary, when moving i think (not 100% sure) double clutching seems to help. Also i think after a while of driving it seems to get better. so this had me thinking mainly it was gearbox related.

until today, i went to start my car which is always left in gear, clutch fully in and when i went to click it over the car rocked like as if u tried to start it in gear but not as harsh. Then once it was started it was still a bitch to get in gear, once i got out of the driveway almost impossible to get into gear, when i had the clutch completely in and tried to put it into 1st and 2nd etc it seemed to start moving forward even though it wasn't even in gear, just pushed down hard trying to get it into gear.

Anyway back to last night clutch was always a possibility so there were a few things i had noticed, the clutch did feel a bit weird and possibly lighter with a lot of slack (could be my imagination), and also i did the drop clutch test, in 1st gear in semi wet conditions with new 225's on the back i revved it up and dropped it rolling at about 10ks and it spun up straight away. I have tried the same with 2nd gear before and no cigar, clutch slipped like a bitch.

To be honest i didn't really think the clutch felt like it was slipping at all during normal driving or even real hard driving (not including clutch kicks) so i still thought i had a bit left in it.

but yeh sorry for the long post but hopefully someone can identify the issue, any help would be greatly appreciated.

cheers

Edited by nisskid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/
Share on other sites

Almost sounds like the clutch is not disengaging properly and this is why you are having trouble changing gears and why it rolled forward even though you had your foot on the clutch when you started it..

Doubt it's slipping, more likely not disengaging..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2839989
Share on other sites

yep, thats what i couldnt understand, if it was slipping if anything it would probably make it easier to change gears, its more like its engaged partially even when the clutch pedal is completely down. on ns.com i was given a guide to adjust the clutch level in a silvia, that sounds like the way to go but i need to find out how to do it in a R32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2840280
Share on other sites

my ceffy did the same at QR on sunday - starting it in gear with clutch in it started to move forward (if i start it in neutral i cant get any gear) - Stopped in staging, foot on clutch (brand new 2wks old Exedy HD item) car still wanted to roll forward slowly...

Car also bunnyhopped occassionally when clutch was fully out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2844499
Share on other sites

check the fluid level in the master cylinder sounds like you have a leak and there is now air in the system which is why the clutch pedal feels different and also why the clutch is hard to use

BINGO! i went to adjust my clutch today and had the thought, how bout i check my fluid level. turns out it was dry as a 90 year old's snatch, also noticed the brake level was below minimum along with steering fluid. I know the steering pump lines are leaking but i checked my fluids a month or less back and it was all fine. might have to keep a close eye out incase there is a leak in the clutch and brake lines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2844811
Share on other sites

easy way to check is master is leaking, is look for stains on the firewall or in the foot well just above the clutch pedal, for the slave just have a look and see if you can see any fluid around it.

the brakes on the other hand i would get checked out, they are not something you want to let go clutch isn't so bad compared to brakes

Edited by Green_s13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152681-clutch-problem/#findComment-2850307
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...