Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I decided to attach a picture of a dyno sheet of my car. This was done a few weeks ago and I wasn’t going to post it as the power rating/figure doesn’t mean squat. I am just showing you a comparison between the wolf 3d ecu and the factory ecu.

Back round info:

This was done, as I wasn’t happy with my dyno result on the Dr_Drift Dyno day. My mechanic is in the process of purchasing a dyno, so the rep. from dyno dynamics brought the dyno to the w/shop to demonstrate all its operations. (Lucky for me, my car was the test car :P)

Now the rep did all the setting up and driving, whilst my mechanic was in the passenger seat, I was on the sidelines. So if the dyno dynamic rep. can’t do an accurate run, who can? (Read: This is a true reading of the car’s rwkw). I also put my factory rims back on, as I knew my 19 “s would produce a lower kW reading (physics)

After doing a few runs with the wolf, we plugged back in the factory ecu to see the difference. A couple of runs were done on the ecu with the same results. I do not know if the ecu needs time to recalibrate itself after being unplugged, but the results were huge. Also, before buying the wolf the car would backfire and loose power while on hi-boost, this is what prompted me to get the wolf 3d.

*All runs were done without the huge fan at the front of the car, as there was no room on the dyno dynamics trailer to fit it. Thus, intake temps. would have been higher than normal.

Mods:

13psi

Fmic

Sealed pod

3” exhaust, turbo back

H/D clutch

PS:

-Looking at the graph I feel some more gains (without effecting drivability, or a/f ratios above 12.2) could be had with more tunning, am I right or does the graph look good? (Especially around the dip btw 2500-4500rpm, and the peak power at 6100rpm)

PPS:

- The “MAX 140.0 kW” was for the factory ecu, the wolf 3d made 189.7 kW (NOT in ‘shoot out’ mode)

You could lean off a bit more mid range fuel and maybe whack a bit more timing in there as well....It starts tapering off after the VCT kicks in sometimes u cant possibly produce more power before that range

I see the stock ecu fuel economy was much better I would lean that out as well i guess its not a priority when everyone is looking at "boost" figures and fine tuning the low end wont give you gains. I would look into it tho

The wolf is like 10.0:1 as boost comes on u could bring it back up to the level as the standard ecu lthats prolly why u arent getting any more hp there..Ur much richer, however your timing advancement is probably way superior and thats why the line follows your stock curve until about 4k then yeeha!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
    • Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself.   First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?
    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...