Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a very new Recaro Sports electric height adjustable seat with a Skyline GTS-T mounting frame (drivers side) ready to go. Just need to wire up the connector and attach via the four bolts.

Better looking than the GTR Recaro's (similar shape) and the last of the Sports seats with the 4 point harness holes. Grey in colour. Lumbar support adjustment via air bladder in seat. Very comfortable seat. Certainly stops you from sliding off the seat in those fast corners.

Will have photo's soon.

Cost me $2200 fully installed and is only a couple of months old. No damage at all.

Willing to sell for $1400. Can supply in Sydney or near lower Blue mountains.

Also -

I have original air intake/filter and associated pipework for GTS-T series 2 (make an offer).

and

set of the four original series 2 alloys in top condition ($400).

and

R33 front strut brace about 6 months old in good condition - $100

another pic.

The electric adjustment pivots from the front of the seat when it raises or lowers the seat. Front of seat pulls out for more leg support.

One word of warning is that the front of the seat sits 3-4 cm higher than the original GTS-T seats due to the extra hight adjustable mechanism so if you have short legs it might be an issue. Probably better suited to 170cm or taller drivers.

it's only the front edge of the seat that sits higher. Your bum would basically sit in the same hight as the old seat (with it lowered fully). Knees certainly get close to the steering wheel with this seat. I'm 183cm tall and it feels just right. Just don't raise the seat all the way or you will end up bumping your head.

Not too fussed if someone doesn't buy it as I wouldn't mind using it in the next car I end up with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...