Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, im cleanin out my garage so here are the things i have up for sale.

Original r34 nismo wing yellow -$250 price drop $225

post-34770-1169521386.jpg

Standard r34 wing (i have a few of these) black, white, silver -$200 each price drop $180

post-34770-1169521536.jpg

Std r34 rims x4 -$400

post-34770-1169521725.jpg

white wheels x4 18x8inch $850 Price drop $800

post-34770-1170470082.jpg

18inch Nismo LMGT3 wheels

http://www.endlessperformanceonline.com/pr...&start_no=0

Comes with 4 almost new tyres Nangkang (99%). only driven 10kms.

fronts 245 x 18

rears 275x18

$3000 . no low ballers.

thats all for now guys.

Prices are pretty firm however i am slightly negotiable.

Pm me for more pics and details

thanks

Located in sydney

Edited by xcon18
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152971-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What happened to the motors? The controller would be useless without it...and I can't find anywhere that just sells the motors separately??

i have the motors but they came off a set of suspension on an evo7. not sure if the motors would work for any other cars. if motors are included the price would be $280 with no harness

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152971-parts-for-sale/#findComment-2859790
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...