Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Funny you said this Dan, my single plate felt like a sledgehammer hitting the engine whereas the twin plate has a much softer engagement.

I never truly appreciated the physical size difference between these clutches until I put my old single plate side-by-side to the NPC twin plate - it was dead easy to see which was the stronger/better engineered unit. The NPC must have weighed twice as much.

But keep in mind that the NPC twin plate includes the flywheel as part of it. The other one, after attaching to the Nissan flywheel I think actually weighs slightly more.

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Turns out the clutch in my car was the bog stocko nissan organic single plate that they came out with, the gearbox had never been opened.

:) I'd never had a "twin-plate" before either which is why i was amazed at how nicely it engaged. I can't believe the standard clutch lasted 100 odd kms. I can't find the mechanics report i got with the car, but i did save the Yahoo auction ad and the J-spec ad which clearly said it had a Nismo clutch.

As for the remodelling point the R34GTR turbine, the carbon bonnet, the carbon fender, the carbon door, the strengthening clutch (the ニスモ make), the BLITZ 17 inch wheel, the imitation brake pad, the turbo timer, the imitation muffler and the front pipe et cetera have been attached perhaps. The engine, the blowing rising and idling are satisfactory. There is a year type fit scar and dent et cetera. There is no either section and oil leak et cetera, it is the vehicle whose service is very good.

Sorry if you felt i mislead you, without taking apart the entire car i could only go on the information i was given.

Its all good now neil, dont worry, im not holding it against you. The rebuild price and the price to put in the new 6 button were comperable, and I highly doubt I will ever chuck enough power at the 6 button to break it.

I also think the clutch has been slipping since I got the car, and prehaps before then. The original clutch was very, very worn as was the flywheel. Driving the car home tonight was an intresting experciance, with the car happily chirping 2nd and 3rd before I learnt how to drive the button clutch properly (And you could almost hear the sigh of relief from my gearbox when I did) - the car feels much, much faster now too. Giving it stick from 1st to 2nd taking off from the lights in the 80 zone on the way home, it happily spun the back wheels up on the gear change and for half a second the car wanted to step out before attessa kicked in and corrected. Something I must be careful of in the future, thank god I was the only car on the road.

All in all, dans effort on this was 110% - He had the car finished well ahead of when he first said he would, the job seems to be very through with dan replacing the spigot bush and the throwout bearing in the car, and of course a machined flywheel, along with a few other odds and ends. The whole car drives and feels quite smooth, and once you get used to the feeling of the new clutch its actually quite pleasureable to drive.

Two thumbs up for Elite Racing Developments :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...