Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-Joel- ure getting better fuel econ? is that freeway driving or city driving? or both? what are you averaging a tank so far?

Thats local 80 & 60km/h driving.

I've always had decent fuel economy.. Roughly 500km's per tank.

On the dyno the O2 sensor was working pretty well. Under light acceleration it was in closed loop mode constantly with afr's no richer than around 13.8:1.

I put the car in to O2 sensor diag mode once and drove it around to see what it was doing.. As the dyno said i could accelerate with traffic and it would constantly sit in the closed loop mode. It took a couple pounds of boost before the O2 sensor would no longer be used and the ecu would refer to its maps.

Maybe this is why Darrens R32 Rb30DET wouldn't run on the base map of the PowerFC?!?! His O2 Sensor may be stuffed.

i think this had better be mentioned in the rb2530 conversion guide!
I think it should too.. :)

This is how the rb30 guide has came about.. People post their findings..

A few people keep things to their selves or can't be bothered helping out the thread once their rb30det is up and running. :D

BUT.. The blocks you have..

Do you know the origion of them? What car what year etc?

I asked this when buying mine from the wrecker.

Maybe its a Skyline block? not a VL? Doesn't explain the turbo block you have though...

I also have to make an adopter plate to fit a 4wd sump as it will be going into a GTS4.
Could you please post your findings with the Adaptor plate.. What needs doing etc.. Even take some pics.

I will put it in the guide for us SAUer's.

I would love to have an RB30 in a GTS4. Would be absolutely awesome..

You will know what I mean once you drive the RB30.. :D

In NA form with my turbo wastegate wide open it will easily spin up the rear wheels by simply putting your foot down as you take off.

I can see my theory of the rb30 being more linear so it will be easier to control wheel spin is going to be given a good workout.

I think it should too.. :)

 

This is how the rb30 guide has came about.. People post their findings..

 

A few people keep things to their selves or can't be bothered helping out the thread once their rb30det is up and running. :D

 

BUT.. The blocks you have..

 

Do you know the origion of them? What car what year etc?

I asked this when buying mine from the wrecker.

 

Maybe its a Skyline block? not a VL? Doesn't explain the turbo block you have though...

mate i pulled them all out myself. all from series 1 commodores and 2 of them were factory turbo

Joel are u getting decent fuel economy, cos your still on the run in stage, and havent been putting the foot in as hard as you were with the rb20? :D

Mine wasn't running on the std Pfc maps, cos of the air filter adaptor i reckons... :) made the normally 80mm hole down to 50mm or so...

Mine goes in for its full tune late this week, or early next, so watch out for its first full power run :D Only thing holding it back willl be the turbo and exhaust.. :(

My 02 sensor is the std one on on the car (read 12 years old) so id expect it to be dodgy like everything else was that i replaced...

TAKE NOTE EVERYONE - dont think this is a drop in job....most things have to be replaced due to age if yer slappin in a 500 hp motor :)

Darren,

If anything I expect the motor to use more fuel during its run in as the rings don't seal as well and you tend to get more ring blow by. Hence why a car will make less power when it is really fresh compared to when it is finally run in.

I actually drive it harder with the rb30, accelerate away fromthe lights quicker and am always putting the foot down to 1/2-3/4 when exiting corners.

Towards the end there I was so so sick of the gutless rb20t I used to just put it around. The having to rev it to get any where used to annoy me. :D

Yer there's definately a couple of little variables.. The pod adaptor and the o2 sensor.

How was your fuel economy previous to the rb30?

lol yer its not just a drop in job.. I replaced every single heater hose, all fuel line hose. Everything. Heater hoses were ~$500 all up, ouch. :)

Do you think you really need to run the 02 sensor with the Power FC etc?

Why not disconnect it and turn it off in the settings and then just have the car tuned without it?

The actual tune won't be affected by a bad O2 sensor BUT what it will affect is the light throttle cruise and idle as the 02 sensor trims the maps to suit the desired AFR (14.7:1).

With a dud O2 sensor fuel consumption in a RB20 or RB25DET will drop from close to 500km's per tank to high 200's to low 300's.

Over time they loose their response time and slowly fuel consumption increases.

This can create idle hunting issues as the O2 sensor is unable to adjust the fuel quick enough.. In turn it runs too lean then too rich etc. Not the nice happy medium with a fast responding O2 sensor.

Yes but with the PowerFC you can not set how much of the map you want the 02 to adjust..

It's better to tune without it than to worry if the one you have in there isn't working like it should be?

I'm going to try without the O2 sensors and see how it goes, I have seen cars tuned without them and they get good gas milage.

I also don't want to have to buy new GTR O2 sensors.. x 2 :P

Yes but with the PowerFC you can not set how much of the map you want the 02 to adjust..

It's better to tune without it than to worry if the one you have in there isn't working like it should be?

I'm going to try without the O2 sensors and see how it goes, I have seen cars tuned without them and they get good gas milage.

I also don't want to have to buy new GTR O2 sensors.. x 2 :D

Like the standard ECU, the PFC O2 feedback is self learning. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...