Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-Joel- ure getting better fuel econ? is that freeway driving or city driving? or both? what are you averaging a tank so far?

Thats local 80 & 60km/h driving.

I've always had decent fuel economy.. Roughly 500km's per tank.

On the dyno the O2 sensor was working pretty well. Under light acceleration it was in closed loop mode constantly with afr's no richer than around 13.8:1.

I put the car in to O2 sensor diag mode once and drove it around to see what it was doing.. As the dyno said i could accelerate with traffic and it would constantly sit in the closed loop mode. It took a couple pounds of boost before the O2 sensor would no longer be used and the ecu would refer to its maps.

Maybe this is why Darrens R32 Rb30DET wouldn't run on the base map of the PowerFC?!?! His O2 Sensor may be stuffed.

i think this had better be mentioned in the rb2530 conversion guide!
I think it should too.. :)

This is how the rb30 guide has came about.. People post their findings..

A few people keep things to their selves or can't be bothered helping out the thread once their rb30det is up and running. :D

BUT.. The blocks you have..

Do you know the origion of them? What car what year etc?

I asked this when buying mine from the wrecker.

Maybe its a Skyline block? not a VL? Doesn't explain the turbo block you have though...

I also have to make an adopter plate to fit a 4wd sump as it will be going into a GTS4.
Could you please post your findings with the Adaptor plate.. What needs doing etc.. Even take some pics.

I will put it in the guide for us SAUer's.

I would love to have an RB30 in a GTS4. Would be absolutely awesome..

You will know what I mean once you drive the RB30.. :D

In NA form with my turbo wastegate wide open it will easily spin up the rear wheels by simply putting your foot down as you take off.

I can see my theory of the rb30 being more linear so it will be easier to control wheel spin is going to be given a good workout.

I think it should too.. :)

 

This is how the rb30 guide has came about.. People post their findings..

 

A few people keep things to their selves or can't be bothered helping out the thread once their rb30det is up and running. :D

 

BUT.. The blocks you have..

 

Do you know the origion of them? What car what year etc?

I asked this when buying mine from the wrecker.

 

Maybe its a Skyline block? not a VL? Doesn't explain the turbo block you have though...

mate i pulled them all out myself. all from series 1 commodores and 2 of them were factory turbo

Joel are u getting decent fuel economy, cos your still on the run in stage, and havent been putting the foot in as hard as you were with the rb20? :D

Mine wasn't running on the std Pfc maps, cos of the air filter adaptor i reckons... :) made the normally 80mm hole down to 50mm or so...

Mine goes in for its full tune late this week, or early next, so watch out for its first full power run :D Only thing holding it back willl be the turbo and exhaust.. :(

My 02 sensor is the std one on on the car (read 12 years old) so id expect it to be dodgy like everything else was that i replaced...

TAKE NOTE EVERYONE - dont think this is a drop in job....most things have to be replaced due to age if yer slappin in a 500 hp motor :)

Darren,

If anything I expect the motor to use more fuel during its run in as the rings don't seal as well and you tend to get more ring blow by. Hence why a car will make less power when it is really fresh compared to when it is finally run in.

I actually drive it harder with the rb30, accelerate away fromthe lights quicker and am always putting the foot down to 1/2-3/4 when exiting corners.

Towards the end there I was so so sick of the gutless rb20t I used to just put it around. The having to rev it to get any where used to annoy me. :D

Yer there's definately a couple of little variables.. The pod adaptor and the o2 sensor.

How was your fuel economy previous to the rb30?

lol yer its not just a drop in job.. I replaced every single heater hose, all fuel line hose. Everything. Heater hoses were ~$500 all up, ouch. :)

Do you think you really need to run the 02 sensor with the Power FC etc?

Why not disconnect it and turn it off in the settings and then just have the car tuned without it?

The actual tune won't be affected by a bad O2 sensor BUT what it will affect is the light throttle cruise and idle as the 02 sensor trims the maps to suit the desired AFR (14.7:1).

With a dud O2 sensor fuel consumption in a RB20 or RB25DET will drop from close to 500km's per tank to high 200's to low 300's.

Over time they loose their response time and slowly fuel consumption increases.

This can create idle hunting issues as the O2 sensor is unable to adjust the fuel quick enough.. In turn it runs too lean then too rich etc. Not the nice happy medium with a fast responding O2 sensor.

Yes but with the PowerFC you can not set how much of the map you want the 02 to adjust..

It's better to tune without it than to worry if the one you have in there isn't working like it should be?

I'm going to try without the O2 sensors and see how it goes, I have seen cars tuned without them and they get good gas milage.

I also don't want to have to buy new GTR O2 sensors.. x 2 :P

Yes but with the PowerFC you can not set how much of the map you want the 02 to adjust..

It's better to tune without it than to worry if the one you have in there isn't working like it should be?

I'm going to try without the O2 sensors and see how it goes, I have seen cars tuned without them and they get good gas milage.

I also don't want to have to buy new GTR O2 sensors.. x 2 :D

Like the standard ECU, the PFC O2 feedback is self learning. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...