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hahahaha..

thanks..

doughy? what are my options for increased CR without the $$$'s?

will the 8.3:1 feel doughier than a stock rb20det?

quench.. so does anything need to be done here with 30e bottom and 25de head?

tuner.. I guess you an point me in the right direction of this TUNER that can make the stock ecu do all this?

turbo - check

gaskets - check

inlet manifold and injectors and fuel rail - check

blah blah blah... no water spray.

Sorry about the fingers.

I will look forward to Joel and Darrens's reply to my questions about lowering the engine while using the stock plenum and so on.

also, how that affected the gearbox and other bits down the line to the rear.

Are there any R32 gtst RB30det's in sydney willing to take me for a spin?

*nudges sydney kid*

Are there any R32 gtst RB30det's in sydney willing to take me for a spin? *nudges sydneykid*

Sorry the GTR that had the original RB30DET in it is long gone, it was sold 4 years ago. Almost finished a new RB31DET for the R32GTST, maybe when it is finished.

The 3 litres with DOHC have so much torque in the light R32 GTST, you won't notice any slight doughyness.

:cheers:

I can't wait to get mine completed, see what its like compared to the trusty old rb30et.

You would think way better, with higher comp ratio and higher flowing head, but we'll have to wait and see.

The rb30et has blown many a car away of higher pedigree, so this in theory would have to be insane, even with a modest size huffer.

doughy? what are my options for increased CR without the $$$'s?

will the 8.3:1 feel doughier than a stock rb20det?

I wouldn't worry about it.

Mine is around the 8.3:1.

I can let the clutch out at idle and accelerate in first quicker than a Auto LS1 VYII *stocker* can accelerate by simply flattening it, thats taking first to around 5000rpm then changing in to second where it only accelerates for a fraction of a second I am then at around 80km/h the LS1 is sitting on my rear bumper. Both reaction times are exactly the same & repeated twice.

It is nice not having to play catchup for once, pitty I can't give it more due to the lack of a tune :cheers:

So I wouldn't worry about it being dougy.

BUT ALWAYS A BUT.

If I were to do it again I would definitely get a custom set of forgy's made up to suit a 9:1 comp. Especially if you intend to use a pair of aftermarket cams.

EDIT: Regarding cams you SHOULD be able to obtain an indication how the motor will respond (peak power/torque) to a certian cam timing, duration etc by looking at the SR20DET with the same cams. Same/very similiar bore & stroke so in theory it should react similar.

Joel. I found a clip on a link you provided to one of your cars video's of when it started..

I actually couldn't see that clip but found one called "MILD_r32.wmv"

is that your car?

that is sweet.

from what I can see, it is about 5.5 seconds from 0-100km/h, with a pretty average launch, then just under 14 seconds till it hits 180km/h..

It's definitely a GTST dash/speedo and running at least 1 bar boost..

it's weird.. you can't hear any spooling or bov or squeeling tyres or anything...

brilliant..

so who's car?

what mods?

what power?

You had me baffled for a sec there, then I clicked.. You checked out my webspace. :)

It was the RB20DET that used to run 0-100 in around 5.2secs with a good launch and from 5.5-6 with a bad launch. Then on to 175km/h in just over 13secs.

The reason you can't hear squeeling is there was none, the tyres don't squeel until they get low on tread. :D

The bov etc isn't loud as its still running the stock airbox & filter. :)

If you drop the motor, you will also need to drop the gearbox via crossmember spacers, a similar distance, and also possibly the centre bearing support on the tailshaft if you want to keep all the geometry right, wouldnt you?

When I dropped the motor in my R33 conversion, I just left the gearbox mounts and tailshaft position as it was. The angle change didn't really translate to any visible extreme at that end. I probably dropped it more than the 12/15 mm mentioned as well...probably closer to 20/25mm. I did over 75k kilometres with this setup, and had no vibration/tailshaft issues. Unfortunantely I haven't had any experience with the R32 chassis....

Yeah I doubt the angle will have any effect at all..

Well I know you can't redrill each side the same amount.. as they are on different angles.. got any photos? :)

Guess I will have to experiment.. need to keep the same angle though or the gearbox and stick will be on the wrong angle also..

I removed all the clutch packs etc from the GTR transfer case in the weekend so I can convert the box to 2WD.

Ben,

From memory it was something like 15mm on the drivers and 13mm on the passenger.

The motor sits exactly the same angle as it previously did.

All hoses & even the stock IC piping bolts up perfecto.. No misalignment at all.

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