Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont think theres many engines you could bore out a whole 500cc.

Heh yeah thought it was a fair bit, worth asking though. Just another quick question, does using the rb26 crank change the RB25 capacity?

lol how much are those turbo's gonna set you back? probs more cash then I have in the bank lol.

test bed so we can compare turbo's. I've been thinking about teeing up one of the garrett suppliers to help me test different turbo's and get some results. Same engine only thing that gets changed is turbo's.

I would ~love~ to be able to try both.. trouble is no wants to loan me turbos - go figure...

You go the 2530's matt and ill try out the GT-RS's :)

I'LLLL KICK YOUR A$$ !!!! oopss.. sorry.. just my naturally competitive nature plus a little Tourettes syndrome possibly.... :dry:

Actually its a pity we're not in the same town - you can only really tell when you 'drive' each other car. But hopefully the Dyno will probably give us an idea. Be good to compare for sure.

Mmmm... boost at 3000rpm... giddeup!

I'm happy to go 26/30 with 2530's, all I need is the RB30 + conversion parts, the rest is there. Actually all I need is an engine builder that can do the whole thing for me :ermm:

have you spoken to Jamie about it Ben ??

im sure he would be willing to do this for you.

Yup he said he could do it (said he built Dan's 25/30) and also has a spare rb30 block but just not sure if I should go to an engine specialist with more experience due to the importance of getting it 100% right and all the custom work required.

Edited by benm
Yup he said he could do it (said he built Dan's 25/30) and also has a spare rb30 block but just not sure if I should go to an engine specialist with more experience due to the importance of getting it 100% right and all the custom work required.

umm what custom work ???

most of the parts for these conversions are available pre made, such as crank collars, 4wd adapter plates etc

more than likely he would be using nepean engines on correen Av for the machining work (same guy did my block prep)

has done Dans engine, can confirm this

he will be doing some of the oil feed work for my rb25 head, as he did it a clever way for Dans engine.

just on an offnote. the crank collar adaptor is there so we can install a bigger/better oil pump correct?

if not can someone explain?

originally i was under the impression it was required/created for r32GTR cranks to be able to run the later model R33 GTR pumps which utilise the larger area

but now it seems normal for people to suggest fitting it..

personally

i'm going to be running the rb25 oil pump on the first motor, so im not going to install one on this engine.

std bottom end, cant really justify the cost of the unit and install, built motor with N1 will get it

just on an offnote. the crank collar adaptor is there so we can install a bigger/better oil pump correct?

if not can someone explain?

All it does is provide a full length drive for the oil pump. Where as std (rb30, rb20, r33 rb25 series 1, & R32 rb26) all have a really small drive that doesn't cover the whole of the oil pumps drive.

I've attached a pic that I saved when some one popped an oil pump.

You can see how the standard oil pump drive is not the full width of the gear.

And attached the jun oil collar.

post-382-1158056439.jpg

post-382-1158056444.jpg

This is the difference of the two drives.

post-12828-1158056889.jpg

I think even for a standardish build, oil pump and collar are a must. Because it seems that alot of people seem to have the oil pump failing problem. Whether its the gear breaking, or screws coming loose from vibrations or just old age. Since its sort of an essential item to the overall life of an engine it should be considered with more importance.

Craved,

originally i was under the impression it was required/created for r32GTR cranks to be able to run the later model R33 GTR pumps which utilise the larger area

It doesn't really have anything to do with the later modem r33 gtr pumps as all the gtr, rb20 and rb25 pumps have a gear width greater than that of the drive, so they ALL benifit by running the full drive.

RB20's and rb25's have been known to suffer the same fate as the gtr's.

The RB30 oil pumps have an internal gear that is near the same size as of the standard drive.

Craved,

It doesn't really have anything to do with the later modem r33 gtr pumps as all the gtr, rb20 and rb25 pumps have a gear width greater than that of the drive, so they ALL benifit by running the full drive.

RB20's and rb25's have been known to suffer the same fate as the gtr's.

The RB30 oil pumps have an internal gear that is near the same size as of the standard drive.

what do you mean by it covers the full length drive of the oil pump?

if im using an r32 rb25de oil pump on rb30 it will still work?

what do you mean by it covers the full length drive of the oil pump?

if im using an r32 rb25de oil pump on rb30 it will still work?

The oil pump has an internal gear that is wider than the lug on the crank that engages with the oil pump to drive it.

By fitting the crank collar this then places even pressure across the oil pumps internal gear.

RB25de oil pump from what I've seen looks the same as the rb20 pump, unsure if pressure is the same would need to look it up in the engine manual for that one. :D

The RB30 oil pumps have an internal gear that is near the same size as of the standard drive.

so the RB30 pump shouldn't have the same issues as the twin cam pumps????

Edited by 2GU UP

hmmm might have to look at this

have the rb30e oil pump at home, and an RB25det one too

my first rb30 i am rebuiling for under $1500 as i cant afford the full build forged internal ones atm .. and i already have another long engine sitting there .. so i guess i will try and see ... if it goes boom it goes boom.

Edited by Craved
i must be taking ages to comprehend this so having a bigger drive and the pump engaging more means is spreading more oil/more oil more evenly etc?

doesnt affect how much oil is pumped

just is used to prevent oil pump failures due to uneven pressure on its internal gears, which can cause them to crack like in Cubes' post above .. see red circles

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...