R33 Rb30 Conversion

[platinum]

I assume from your statements that you are running a D-Jetro PFC (MAP sensor)?

To run it on a standard ECU you will need to throw an AFM in there. I will also guess that it will max the standard AFM pretty much straight away and run in R&R most of the time..

Hmm, no, just go the regular RB25DET AFM and standard RB25DET PFC! Just don't have the boost sensor like standard '33's do.

It's actually a pretty standard setup, stock turbo, stock injectors, stock sensors. Makes about close to 200kw at 14psi. I might give it a shot and take it somewhere for them to check the a/f ratio, etc.

[Alf]

Install a wideband o2 sensor with afr gauge.

Make adjustments to fuel so its safe to drive it to the dyno for a proper tune.

Your going to need the boost solenoid

Edited May 29, 2008 by Alf

[bubba]

Hmm, no, just go the regular RB25DET AFM and standard RB25DET PFC! Just don't have the boost sensor like standard '33's do.

It's actually a pretty standard setup, stock turbo, stock injectors, stock sensors. Makes about close to 200kw at 14psi. I might give it a shot and take it somewhere for them to check the a/f ratio, etc.

Hmmk, don't know much about 33's, AFAIK the boost sensor was purely to operate the indash boost gauge.

That power isn't bad, I've got a 25 turbo on my 30 and it makes 183rwkw @ 12psi but really dies in the ass up high, about 5800rpm it chokes up bigtime

[platinum]

bah, just sold my car, so no need to do the computer swap

Cheers for the help though guys, I reckon it would have needed that boost sensor though!

[infamous_t]

Hmmk, don't know much about 33's, AFAIK the boost sensor was purely to operate the indash boost gauge.

Im pretty sure your right, as only the R34 has any mention of boost sensor to ecu.

[bubba]

Shutup and build a 3L Tristan.. you know you want to

[infamous_t]

Shutup and build a 3L Tristan.. you know you want to

Geez you are cranky today... and yes I do want to build the 3L, I've just gotta kill the 2.6 first

[bubba]

If you really wanna kill the 26 give me call, I'll help

[Gts-t]

So as per the guide is 33mm and 17.7mm the correct distances to locate where the top tensioner will go? I thought i read somewhere on here probably in this thread that that spot was infact a few mm in one direction?

Thanks fellas

[Cubes]

The tensioner location does need a little fiddling with. Im soon to do a 100,000km service so I'll measure mine up as when drilling we made sure of belt clearance etc

[GTRgeoff]

So as per the guide is 33mm and 17.7mm the correct distances to locate where the top tensioner will go? I thought i read somewhere on here probably in this thread that that spot was infact a few mm in one direction?

Thanks fellas

I'd bring it across another mm or 2 away from the centre. Mine needs no adjustment atm once the belt is on and a little extra space would be nice.

[edit] gave the wrong direction [edit]

[R34GTFOUR]

The tensioner location does need a little fiddling with. Im soon to do a 100,000km service so I'll measure mine up as when drilling we made sure of belt clearance etc

have you clocked up 100k km on the rb30?

[Cubes]

have you clocked up 100k km on the rb30?

Getting damn close.

[TiTAN]

You have to remember Cubes's RB30 is about 5 years old now. Thats only ~20,000km a year.

[Mr Jollwah]

Im pretty sure your right, as only the R34 has any mention of boost sensor to ecu.

I thought the map sensor sig does go to the ecu on the r33.

How else does the ecu know when to switch the ground on the boost control soleniod.

[Adriano]

I thought the map sensor sig does go to the ecu on the r33.

How else does the ecu know when to switch the ground on the boost control soleniod.

Its rpm based

[Mr Jollwah]

oops I stand corrected it is solely rpm based..................

I am going to crawl back under my rock now

[Gts-t]

I'd bring it across another mm or 2 toward the centre. Mine needs no adjustment atm once the belt is on and a little extra space would be nice.

Thanks for that geoff, i know i can trust your info

[GTRgeoff]

You're welcome. There is space there and with the belt I got (which is the recommended one in the guide) it was a tiny bit too tight initially. Tension is perfect now but it needs no adjustment.

I noticed some tool in another thread that thinks that 30 hybrids need to be absolutely right...well more that it is very easy to screw up the job and have an absolute pig of an engine.

Anyone having those problems?

I'm not but I can't find the thread so further assistance and support can be offered from the other experienced lovers in here

[GTRgeoff]

ACTUALLY I STUFFED UP.

Sorry, I've been hammered on morphine for the last 2 weeks. It has to go OUT 1-2mm to ease the tension a little.

Correcting other post now.