Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

from memory it depends which power steering pump you are using, and if the belts line up correctly. Assuming the alternator/water pump belts are the same.

but for the price of the ross units why not just get one of them?

Agreed!

its a standard rebuild that im doing so i dont need the ross

I was going to use my r32 one but for the price i might as well get a new one. I remember sk posting that he uses mostly rb26, i think ill have to do some old fashioned belt checking and see if i can do the same. Otherwise im sure the rb20 one will be fine

Actually cubes will know, where are you old mate?

Edited by Gts30t
  • 3 weeks later...

hey all,

slightly off topic but im in n.z and i have a spare r32 non vct rb25de head that im thinking about selling, just wondering how much should i sell it for?

i have had it vacuum tested,crack/pressure tested and have had the valves all checked and have had it dipped to clean it all up. Only thing wrong is the exhaust valve guides have a tiny bit of play in it. The head is disassembled also but everything is there to put it back together i.e springs,valves,camshaft,gears etc.

I also have a r33 vct head that im thinking about selling what sort of price could i get for that? would it differ compared to the r32 as the r32 head are harder to find?

They both (with manifolds) go for around 1k these days.

The R32 rb25de heads can sometimes fetch a little more due to the no fuss bolt on and go.

The r32 rb25de has 'slightly' smaller but rounder ports compared to the rb25det vct head. Regardless they don't appear to give anything away in the power making vs boost side of things.

Only real issue is both heads are hydraulic of which limits total power output (400rwkw max) on pump fuel due to the inability to run cams with decent lift 10-11mm.

i only have manifolds for one of them which im using for myself. how much do you think i could get just for the single head which is unassembled? A guy has offered me 450 in bits for the r32 head?

Correct but the tomei solder lifter kit requires a cam with a smaller base circle. So extension shimming would be required.

There is a mob I have the number for that apparently converts the hydraulic lifters to solids. Have yet to contact him to find out the details cost etc.

I'd personally machine the heads buckets, grab the tomei solid lifter kit, suitable springs, reco the head and then have Tighe cams grind up a set of billets with 11mm lift or so.

Yeah the only reason i ask is because its a good upgrade for a RB20 i heard and i have a RB20 atm and having the 30 being build (well getting parts together) and just thought i could put them in my RB20 for a upgrade while i wait for the 30 then put them into the 30.

But if i have to machine the 20 head then the 25DE head then theres not that much point as i dont want to do much to the 20.

lol bad boy bubba.. I love cats.. I wouldn't wrap one in gladwrap :kiss:

I looked into solid lifter conversion with some big cams and it came to about $2500 in just parts, then gotta add machining and downtime to that!

I'll stick with my stock NA cams for now..

lol bad boy bubba.. I love cats.. I wouldn't wrap one in gladwrap :kiss:

I looked into solid lifter conversion with some big cams and it came to about $2500 in just parts, then gotta add machining and downtime to that!

I'll stick with my stock NA cams for now..

JHH Engineering in qld does the solid lifter conversion for roughly $450, then add $1250 for cams & gears.

I just picked up a big head from them for a friends car im building (26/30 in a 33gtr), labour on the head was $3130 ($6k head in total)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...