Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont think theres many engines you could bore out a whole 500cc.

Heh yeah thought it was a fair bit, worth asking though. Just another quick question, does using the rb26 crank change the RB25 capacity?

lol how much are those turbo's gonna set you back? probs more cash then I have in the bank lol.

test bed so we can compare turbo's. I've been thinking about teeing up one of the garrett suppliers to help me test different turbo's and get some results. Same engine only thing that gets changed is turbo's.

I would ~love~ to be able to try both.. trouble is no wants to loan me turbos - go figure...

You go the 2530's matt and ill try out the GT-RS's :)

I'LLLL KICK YOUR A$$ !!!! oopss.. sorry.. just my naturally competitive nature plus a little Tourettes syndrome possibly.... :dry:

Actually its a pity we're not in the same town - you can only really tell when you 'drive' each other car. But hopefully the Dyno will probably give us an idea. Be good to compare for sure.

Mmmm... boost at 3000rpm... giddeup!

I'm happy to go 26/30 with 2530's, all I need is the RB30 + conversion parts, the rest is there. Actually all I need is an engine builder that can do the whole thing for me :ermm:

have you spoken to Jamie about it Ben ??

im sure he would be willing to do this for you.

Yup he said he could do it (said he built Dan's 25/30) and also has a spare rb30 block but just not sure if I should go to an engine specialist with more experience due to the importance of getting it 100% right and all the custom work required.

Edited by benm
Yup he said he could do it (said he built Dan's 25/30) and also has a spare rb30 block but just not sure if I should go to an engine specialist with more experience due to the importance of getting it 100% right and all the custom work required.

umm what custom work ???

most of the parts for these conversions are available pre made, such as crank collars, 4wd adapter plates etc

more than likely he would be using nepean engines on correen Av for the machining work (same guy did my block prep)

has done Dans engine, can confirm this

he will be doing some of the oil feed work for my rb25 head, as he did it a clever way for Dans engine.

just on an offnote. the crank collar adaptor is there so we can install a bigger/better oil pump correct?

if not can someone explain?

originally i was under the impression it was required/created for r32GTR cranks to be able to run the later model R33 GTR pumps which utilise the larger area

but now it seems normal for people to suggest fitting it..

personally

i'm going to be running the rb25 oil pump on the first motor, so im not going to install one on this engine.

std bottom end, cant really justify the cost of the unit and install, built motor with N1 will get it

just on an offnote. the crank collar adaptor is there so we can install a bigger/better oil pump correct?

if not can someone explain?

All it does is provide a full length drive for the oil pump. Where as std (rb30, rb20, r33 rb25 series 1, & R32 rb26) all have a really small drive that doesn't cover the whole of the oil pumps drive.

I've attached a pic that I saved when some one popped an oil pump.

You can see how the standard oil pump drive is not the full width of the gear.

And attached the jun oil collar.

post-382-1158056439.jpg

post-382-1158056444.jpg

This is the difference of the two drives.

post-12828-1158056889.jpg

I think even for a standardish build, oil pump and collar are a must. Because it seems that alot of people seem to have the oil pump failing problem. Whether its the gear breaking, or screws coming loose from vibrations or just old age. Since its sort of an essential item to the overall life of an engine it should be considered with more importance.

Craved,

originally i was under the impression it was required/created for r32GTR cranks to be able to run the later model R33 GTR pumps which utilise the larger area

It doesn't really have anything to do with the later modem r33 gtr pumps as all the gtr, rb20 and rb25 pumps have a gear width greater than that of the drive, so they ALL benifit by running the full drive.

RB20's and rb25's have been known to suffer the same fate as the gtr's.

The RB30 oil pumps have an internal gear that is near the same size as of the standard drive.

Craved,

It doesn't really have anything to do with the later modem r33 gtr pumps as all the gtr, rb20 and rb25 pumps have a gear width greater than that of the drive, so they ALL benifit by running the full drive.

RB20's and rb25's have been known to suffer the same fate as the gtr's.

The RB30 oil pumps have an internal gear that is near the same size as of the standard drive.

what do you mean by it covers the full length drive of the oil pump?

if im using an r32 rb25de oil pump on rb30 it will still work?

what do you mean by it covers the full length drive of the oil pump?

if im using an r32 rb25de oil pump on rb30 it will still work?

The oil pump has an internal gear that is wider than the lug on the crank that engages with the oil pump to drive it.

By fitting the crank collar this then places even pressure across the oil pumps internal gear.

RB25de oil pump from what I've seen looks the same as the rb20 pump, unsure if pressure is the same would need to look it up in the engine manual for that one. :D

The RB30 oil pumps have an internal gear that is near the same size as of the standard drive.

so the RB30 pump shouldn't have the same issues as the twin cam pumps????

Edited by 2GU UP

hmmm might have to look at this

have the rb30e oil pump at home, and an RB25det one too

my first rb30 i am rebuiling for under $1500 as i cant afford the full build forged internal ones atm .. and i already have another long engine sitting there .. so i guess i will try and see ... if it goes boom it goes boom.

Edited by Craved
i must be taking ages to comprehend this so having a bigger drive and the pump engaging more means is spreading more oil/more oil more evenly etc?

doesnt affect how much oil is pumped

just is used to prevent oil pump failures due to uneven pressure on its internal gears, which can cause them to crack like in Cubes' post above .. see red circles

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...