Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks the same as mine. :P

With regards to reversion.. I'm unsure.

I do need a lot of ignition timing other wise I get detonation and massive flat spots but this could be also due to the slightly lower static comp ratio.

I'm really unsure. I've got an RB20t head sitting around, i'm going to check out the cam specs and see how it may work with the 3ltr.

I have lost a little fuel economy (From 470km/s per tank to 410km's per tank).

I put it down to the way the 3ltr drives, its always on boost and always grating the rear tyres.

Be sure to check if your head needs shimming to give it a little more seat tension. My head was apparently fine where as Darrens definately needed shims.

Its almost like all heads were tested, the crappy ones were used for N/A and the good ones for turbo.

If you have the money for cams and valve springs do it. :)

If not do with what you have until its run in, see how it goes then change them. Its not a big issue to change cams and springs at a later date.

---------------

If I were to do it again.. I would have listed to SK and gone the 9:1 comp ratio instead of listening to my engine builder and sticking with a 8.2-8.3:1.

Interesting Joel , I want to use a higher CR like 9.0 and am curious to see what sort of timing such an engine uses . I'm aiming to use a GT30R or at least a GT30 turbine to minimise exhaust restriction so as to not resort to low timing numbers on boost to prevent detonation . what do your timing figures look like Joel ?

Thanks A .

My timing figures.. I have no idea. It hasn't been tuned properly yet.

I know comparing the base ignition timing in the ecu of darrens powerfc its around 43degree's or there abouts and 15degree's at the crank. Mine is 22degrees and 20 degrees at the crank and still needs more ignition timing. :P

I'm saving my $$ to get this powerfc.

Also more ignition timing in reversion circumstances is better than pulling timing out.

Is there a way of identifying cams when not in the engine?

There are no markings on the cams besides the purple and orange markings which i would assume would be for inlet and exhaust.

cams.jpg

The valve springs are marked orange for the inlet.

inletvalve.jpg

And pink for the exhaust.

exhaustvalve.jpg

In regards to the engine builder it took me ages to find someone who is old school and has built RB30DET's before and has proof of building tough Rb's like IWIN (33 vspec 750rwhp).

I'm not putting the head on till i see the differences with my own eyes.

I know comparing the base ignition timing in the ecu of darrens powerfc its around 43degree's or there abouts and 15degree's at the crank.

That sounds about right :P

I'll post up a dyno after friday. Mine goes in for its first full power run (if u can call it that, with the rb20 highflow turbo :))

The R33 N/A and Turbo cams are identical, including the lobe center angle.

Its only in the R32's where the N/A and Turbo cams are different.

The N/A cams in the R32's run a slightly smaller duration, this would be to shift peak torque a little lower I would imagine.

joel theres nothing wrong with using more timing :) we turned it up on my stock internally rb25 with t04 running 10psi and it would spin the wheels all the way to 100km/hr on a dry day :)

im sure u know that the lower cr the more timing u use ;)

There must be a way to identify a bare head by its casting number,marks,codes.

I've started a thread on the subject showing what mine are http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=58720

If you guys have pics or any info on the head that u r using post it up so we can compare.

joel theres nothing wrong with using more timing ;) we turned it up on my stock internally rb25 with t04 running 10psi and it would spin the wheels all the way to 100km/hr on a dry day :thumbsup:

im sure u know that the lower cr the more timing u use :thumbsup:

Its not so much that its more the economy, better response, more power on a lower boost not to mention the potential with the high cr. combined with a nice set of aftermarket cams. We all know big cams like lots of compression. :)

It has excellent response now but I'm a bit of a what if person.

What if it was running 9:1. :)

Just a piece of info that will help those building there engines themselves...

ACL Main cap bearings, i use the race ones ie harder casing material better resistance to oil and scuffing

Part No: 7M2394HX-STD <- this is where you tell them the journal size, i was lucky my mains journals just needed a polish thus i got STD or standard, no linishing was carried out)

Just had a box sitting here thought id type it up for youse!!!

Daniel.

I ended up going the King bearing route.

http://www.kingbearings.com/advantages.html

Some reading to why they went from the trimetal to their bi-metal alecular bearing material.

But what would I know. It sounds good what they are stating but is it really.. lol

I need your thoughts on the below.

Should the rb30 bottom end/ 25head need blueprinting?

The engine is going to be making somwhere in the 600 flywheel hp mark, the bottom end has scat rods, arias forgies, acl race bearings, rb26 harmonic balancer, N1 oil pump, O ringed block, cyo'd/shot peened crank, ARP rb26 head stud kit and rb30 girdle bolts, plus the machining reqd.

The s2 na block has done 240,000 and the insides are in good nick, even the standard nissan big end bearings have little wear.

For the guys who haven't blueprinted their engines, how long has urs lasted?

I need your thoughts on the below.

Should the rb30 bottom end/ 25head need blueprinting?

The engine is going to be making somwhere in the 600 flywheel hp mark, the bottom end has scat rods, arias forgies, acl race bearings, rb26 harmonic balancer, N1 oil pump, O ringed block, cyo'd/shot peened crank, ARP rb26 head stud kit and rb30 girdle bolts, plus the machining reqd.

The s2 na block has done 240,000 and the insides are in good nick, even the standard nissan big end bearings have little wear.      

For the guys who haven't blueprinted their engines, how long has urs lasted?

I don't think many actually go to the trouble of blueprinting.. especially the block.

I have a blueprinted RB26 block.. it made no real difference to anything.

The head also flows so well as it is.. no real point for that power.

Mine only had the basic crank, bigend & mains blueprint to ensure all the little gaps were spot on.

It is definately setup tighter than the old rb20det.

On a cold start with the old 20w50 running in oil pressure was up close to 9kg.

With the thinner 10w30 pressure is down to just under 8 on a cold start.

Once warm it is just over 6 when reving, just over 4 on cruise and around 2 on idle.

With the thicker oil there was a noticable increase in oil pressure.

The rb20dets oil pressure never changed when playing with different oil viscosities. It had done 170,000km's though. :P

The way I under stand blueprinting is, it is everything to do with the motor to make sure it is 100% for the application.

Just to list a few

  • mains
  • bigends
  • Crank run out & end play
  • rods & side clearance
  • Piston clearance
  • piston ring gap
  • piston ring to groove clearance
  • cylinder wall finish
  • quench clearance
  • & ensuring the head is 100%, if not machine or what ever you have to do to make it so. :P

Yes buddy.. Name change.. :D

A little less identifiable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...