Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello people,

if this topic is already post please let me know and show me the light.

Right now I got a R34 GTt, FMIC, pod, 3" to 3 1/4"exhaust system all the way, manual boost controller at ~0.9bar and a oil catch can.

At the last Dyno @ Hyper Drive I got the reading of 170kwrw with standard boost.

I now have some money to spend and I want my sedan to put out 200 to 220 kwrw.

(reason? Well I want it to be reliable and a very day car and I don’t want too much mods eg. Fuel injection upgrade….)

at the moment I'm thinking of getting a SAFC NEO or just SAFC 1 or 2 and if I have to high flow the standard turbo I will, apparently it going to cost about $2500-$2700. or even get a new turbo.

I'm not sure what is the best option and if this is the best step to take.

Please give me some advice.

by the way do anyone know the part number or brand my standard turbo is?

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154302-220rwkw-in-r34gtt-auto/
Share on other sites

Slide Turbo $1k (or less)

SAFC2 ($250-$300)

HKS FCD ($150 or less, actually one on the forum now)

Tune ($200-300 for SAFC2)

Good for your target goal...

Slide Turbo $1k (or less)

E-Manage ($4-500)

Tune ($500-600 for E-Manage)

Good for even more than your target goal...

a remap is preferable to a interceptor piggyback ecu , some people have hit rich and retard quite early on their 34s , not just airflow cut but theres a manifold pressure (boost) cut also on the 34s

the only place i know that can remap is speedworks and when i tried to find out about it about 6 months ago they were useless , knew nothing about the bikirom , wouldnt return emails and phonecalls and i just gave up

lucas (badbiki) was very helpfull though so maybe someone else could tune the bikirom for you . dr drift from vic does them and is in wa from time to time

Slide Turbo $1k (or less)

SAFC2 ($250-$300)

HKS FCD ($150 or less, actually one on the forum now)

Tune ($200-300 for SAFC2)

Good for your target goal...

Slide Turbo $1k (or less)

E-Manage ($4-500)

Tune ($500-600 for E-Manage)

Good for even more than your target goal...

I like what your saying satanic, where can I get this done? If your figures is right I want to do it now.

a remap is preferable to a interceptor piggyback ecu , some people have hit rich and retard quite early on their 34s , not just airflow cut but theres a manifold pressure (boost) cut also on the 34s

the only place i know that can remap is speedworks and when i tried to find out about it about 6 months ago they were useless , knew nothing about the bikirom , wouldnt return emails and phonecalls and i just gave up

lucas (badbiki) was very helpfull though so maybe someone else could tune the bikirom for you . dr drift from vic does them and is in wa from time to time

I got told that HyperDrive in Malaga can do this.

How much horse power will this produce?

Don't take this the wrong way (HyperDrive staffs & mates) but I got told that on some Dyno the reading could be 40rwkw out.

40rwkw is alot to be out by :happy:

Ive recently contacted hyperdrive to install a FMIC, and get a SAFC Neo installed and tuned. This plus my full turbo back zorst, pod and manual boost controller set to 12psi im hoping to get over 200rwkw :woot:

I got told that HyperDrive in Malaga can do this.

How much horse power will this produce?

Don't take this the wrong way (HyperDrive staffs & mates) but I got told that on some Dyno the reading could be 40rwkw out.

the do lumpy roms which arnt for r34

but there was a japanese daughterboard they were talking about doing for a while , but i dont know if anything ever came of it . they had done the same board in a couple of s14s from memory so worth giving them a call

i never finished my quest for power from my 34 triptronic , i just got the gtr instead .

i tuned factory ecu is theoretically as good as anything else on the market , easily taking you to the limits of your chosen turbo

with a gcg dual ballbearing r34 hiflow you could see 260rwkw maybe 280 with cams . maybe less cause of the drivetrain loss of the auto

your auto might not like it when you get close to 300kw though , budget a couple of grand to strengthen it

have you thought about a manual conversion ? then your ecu options open up substantially

Yes, I was thinking of Hiflow the standard Turbo, (as I got the above quote form TurboTech in Guilford) its bit expensive though,,,, coz I can get a full Garrett for less that 2k. of course I have to fit it myself.

Yes I was thinking about the auto if it can handle more 250, as I don't really want to go pass 250rwkw,... it starting to question about reliability and a everyday car. plus the misses had claim it her family car...

at the moment I'm still hesitant of installing a after market computer, but it look like I got no choice.

by the way I re-set my ECU the other day, and my car run sweet, no more flat curve power all the way to 6500rpm... and I'm loving it. I sure it will be more than 170rwkw…. :P

40rwkw is alot to be out by :P

Ive recently contacted hyperdrive to install a FMIC, and get a SAFC Neo installed and tuned. This plus my full turbo back zorst, pod and manual boost controller set to 12psi im hoping to get over 200rwkw ;)

good luck..when are you doing this??. let me know how you go.

do you know what you car running right now??

have you to a auto or manual??

I'm going to Singapore the end of this months, hopeful I can get SAFC 2, Blow of valves and any thing esle I could get a hold on. If not then I'll start spending when I get back.... :) can't wait.

Im going in on the monday coming. I dont know the power levels of my car atm as it has no dyno runs previously so this will be the first one. Seeing as you got 170rwkw with standard boost, im hoping i can get close or crack the 200 rwkw with 12psi boost and safc neo.

My car does run very rich thou, I can even smell the fumes from the fuel sometimes when i reverse so hopefully the safc will make a big difference... HOPEFULLY!

My figures are correct only if you shop around... however they do NOT take into account any of the "incidentals" along the way (which no one ever seems to think about reall). Stuff like materials, fluids, services etc.

Have a chat to Slide (Aarron), he'll do you a good deal - tell him you just want what Stan has :)

Im going in on the monday coming. I dont know the power levels of my car atm as it has no dyno runs previously so this will be the first one. Seeing as you got 170rwkw with standard boost, im hoping i can get close or crack the 200 rwkw with 12psi boost and safc neo.

My car does run very rich thou, I can even smell the fumes from the fuel sometimes when i reverse so hopefully the safc will make a big difference... HOPEFULLY!

Have you trying to replace the O2 sensor? it work for me. save a bit of money on fuel as well.

plus if you reset the computer properly it help.

as I was saying on the earlier post, I now have a more even curve all the way to 6500rpm. and I feel a big diiference, even my mated and misses think so. may be it will read 180-190kwrw on the dyno now. don't know. (or may be I'm wishing)

but yeah. reset your computer it worth it.

now that I have seen what reset the ECU can do you mine, I'm thinking of getting a bigger turbo or Hiflow the standard then install new fuel pump then reset my computer again. then see what happen,

then dyno it after that I'll install the SAFC if I'm not getting 200-220kw.. if I got more then I would be smiling ear to ear.

Is there anyone out there think this may harm my car?? please tell....

Get a F-CON V Pro :) You won't regret it... apparently there is now a tuner in WA (unconfirmed though)

Correct, XSpeed in Myaree.

Those Biagio turbos from Slide look decent. That, a bigger fuel pump and e-Manage (or SAFC Neo) would net you 220rwkw.

Who cares what the dyno reads, get Hyperdrive to dyno your car before the mods go on, then a power run after the tune and mods and look at the gain. You wont find any dyno to calculate a "perfect" figure, all will be different. A dyno is a means of tuning so as long as there is a formitable gain after the mods, be happy with it :laugh:

I'd look at the emanage ultimates from slide, not that much more than a neo and can do ign timing.

The non ultimates overheat coils apparently though.

Correct me if I'm wrong but Isn't ign timing is optional. ( you need to buy that seperate) plus the emanage only have 20% and @ very 1000rpm tunability while the safc is 50% & @ every 500rpm and neo is @ 200rpm not that the tuner will do it at every 200rpm.

2rismo why do you think it a bad idea?

are you trying say with the bigger turbo it boost up more rapily & more consisent air volume so the standard ECU can't handle it so it run lean???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...