Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello people,

if this topic is already post please let me know and show me the light.

Right now I got a R34 GTt, FMIC, pod, 3" to 3 1/4"exhaust system all the way, manual boost controller at ~0.9bar and a oil catch can.

At the last Dyno @ Hyper Drive I got the reading of 170kwrw with standard boost.

I now have some money to spend and I want my sedan to put out 200 to 220 kwrw.

(reason? Well I want it to be reliable and a very day car and I don’t want too much mods eg. Fuel injection upgrade….)

at the moment I'm thinking of getting a SAFC NEO or just SAFC 1 or 2 and if I have to high flow the standard turbo I will, apparently it going to cost about $2500-$2700. or even get a new turbo.

I'm not sure what is the best option and if this is the best step to take.

Please give me some advice.

by the way do anyone know the part number or brand my standard turbo is?

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154302-220rwkw-in-r34gtt-auto/
Share on other sites

Slide Turbo $1k (or less)

SAFC2 ($250-$300)

HKS FCD ($150 or less, actually one on the forum now)

Tune ($200-300 for SAFC2)

Good for your target goal...

Slide Turbo $1k (or less)

E-Manage ($4-500)

Tune ($500-600 for E-Manage)

Good for even more than your target goal...

a remap is preferable to a interceptor piggyback ecu , some people have hit rich and retard quite early on their 34s , not just airflow cut but theres a manifold pressure (boost) cut also on the 34s

the only place i know that can remap is speedworks and when i tried to find out about it about 6 months ago they were useless , knew nothing about the bikirom , wouldnt return emails and phonecalls and i just gave up

lucas (badbiki) was very helpfull though so maybe someone else could tune the bikirom for you . dr drift from vic does them and is in wa from time to time

Slide Turbo $1k (or less)

SAFC2 ($250-$300)

HKS FCD ($150 or less, actually one on the forum now)

Tune ($200-300 for SAFC2)

Good for your target goal...

Slide Turbo $1k (or less)

E-Manage ($4-500)

Tune ($500-600 for E-Manage)

Good for even more than your target goal...

I like what your saying satanic, where can I get this done? If your figures is right I want to do it now.

a remap is preferable to a interceptor piggyback ecu , some people have hit rich and retard quite early on their 34s , not just airflow cut but theres a manifold pressure (boost) cut also on the 34s

the only place i know that can remap is speedworks and when i tried to find out about it about 6 months ago they were useless , knew nothing about the bikirom , wouldnt return emails and phonecalls and i just gave up

lucas (badbiki) was very helpfull though so maybe someone else could tune the bikirom for you . dr drift from vic does them and is in wa from time to time

I got told that HyperDrive in Malaga can do this.

How much horse power will this produce?

Don't take this the wrong way (HyperDrive staffs & mates) but I got told that on some Dyno the reading could be 40rwkw out.

40rwkw is alot to be out by :happy:

Ive recently contacted hyperdrive to install a FMIC, and get a SAFC Neo installed and tuned. This plus my full turbo back zorst, pod and manual boost controller set to 12psi im hoping to get over 200rwkw :woot:

I got told that HyperDrive in Malaga can do this.

How much horse power will this produce?

Don't take this the wrong way (HyperDrive staffs & mates) but I got told that on some Dyno the reading could be 40rwkw out.

the do lumpy roms which arnt for r34

but there was a japanese daughterboard they were talking about doing for a while , but i dont know if anything ever came of it . they had done the same board in a couple of s14s from memory so worth giving them a call

i never finished my quest for power from my 34 triptronic , i just got the gtr instead .

i tuned factory ecu is theoretically as good as anything else on the market , easily taking you to the limits of your chosen turbo

with a gcg dual ballbearing r34 hiflow you could see 260rwkw maybe 280 with cams . maybe less cause of the drivetrain loss of the auto

your auto might not like it when you get close to 300kw though , budget a couple of grand to strengthen it

have you thought about a manual conversion ? then your ecu options open up substantially

Yes, I was thinking of Hiflow the standard Turbo, (as I got the above quote form TurboTech in Guilford) its bit expensive though,,,, coz I can get a full Garrett for less that 2k. of course I have to fit it myself.

Yes I was thinking about the auto if it can handle more 250, as I don't really want to go pass 250rwkw,... it starting to question about reliability and a everyday car. plus the misses had claim it her family car...

at the moment I'm still hesitant of installing a after market computer, but it look like I got no choice.

by the way I re-set my ECU the other day, and my car run sweet, no more flat curve power all the way to 6500rpm... and I'm loving it. I sure it will be more than 170rwkw…. :P

40rwkw is alot to be out by :P

Ive recently contacted hyperdrive to install a FMIC, and get a SAFC Neo installed and tuned. This plus my full turbo back zorst, pod and manual boost controller set to 12psi im hoping to get over 200rwkw ;)

good luck..when are you doing this??. let me know how you go.

do you know what you car running right now??

have you to a auto or manual??

I'm going to Singapore the end of this months, hopeful I can get SAFC 2, Blow of valves and any thing esle I could get a hold on. If not then I'll start spending when I get back.... :) can't wait.

Im going in on the monday coming. I dont know the power levels of my car atm as it has no dyno runs previously so this will be the first one. Seeing as you got 170rwkw with standard boost, im hoping i can get close or crack the 200 rwkw with 12psi boost and safc neo.

My car does run very rich thou, I can even smell the fumes from the fuel sometimes when i reverse so hopefully the safc will make a big difference... HOPEFULLY!

My figures are correct only if you shop around... however they do NOT take into account any of the "incidentals" along the way (which no one ever seems to think about reall). Stuff like materials, fluids, services etc.

Have a chat to Slide (Aarron), he'll do you a good deal - tell him you just want what Stan has :)

Im going in on the monday coming. I dont know the power levels of my car atm as it has no dyno runs previously so this will be the first one. Seeing as you got 170rwkw with standard boost, im hoping i can get close or crack the 200 rwkw with 12psi boost and safc neo.

My car does run very rich thou, I can even smell the fumes from the fuel sometimes when i reverse so hopefully the safc will make a big difference... HOPEFULLY!

Have you trying to replace the O2 sensor? it work for me. save a bit of money on fuel as well.

plus if you reset the computer properly it help.

as I was saying on the earlier post, I now have a more even curve all the way to 6500rpm. and I feel a big diiference, even my mated and misses think so. may be it will read 180-190kwrw on the dyno now. don't know. (or may be I'm wishing)

but yeah. reset your computer it worth it.

now that I have seen what reset the ECU can do you mine, I'm thinking of getting a bigger turbo or Hiflow the standard then install new fuel pump then reset my computer again. then see what happen,

then dyno it after that I'll install the SAFC if I'm not getting 200-220kw.. if I got more then I would be smiling ear to ear.

Is there anyone out there think this may harm my car?? please tell....

Get a F-CON V Pro :) You won't regret it... apparently there is now a tuner in WA (unconfirmed though)

Correct, XSpeed in Myaree.

Those Biagio turbos from Slide look decent. That, a bigger fuel pump and e-Manage (or SAFC Neo) would net you 220rwkw.

Who cares what the dyno reads, get Hyperdrive to dyno your car before the mods go on, then a power run after the tune and mods and look at the gain. You wont find any dyno to calculate a "perfect" figure, all will be different. A dyno is a means of tuning so as long as there is a formitable gain after the mods, be happy with it :laugh:

I'd look at the emanage ultimates from slide, not that much more than a neo and can do ign timing.

The non ultimates overheat coils apparently though.

Correct me if I'm wrong but Isn't ign timing is optional. ( you need to buy that seperate) plus the emanage only have 20% and @ very 1000rpm tunability while the safc is 50% & @ every 500rpm and neo is @ 200rpm not that the tuner will do it at every 200rpm.

2rismo why do you think it a bad idea?

are you trying say with the bigger turbo it boost up more rapily & more consisent air volume so the standard ECU can't handle it so it run lean???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...