Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just got my car back from a manual conversion but having a few hickups... tried a search and theirs tutotials for all cars but the r33.

The car runs fine, everything is beautiful...

except the reverse lights wont light up when I put it in reverse and the speedo/odometer wont work.(The revs/fuel/oil temp all work)

Also the airbag light is on and the break pedal is sticking but I figure these are easy fixes and aren't related to the wiring.

I probably won't understand but feel free to get as technical as you want and I'll pass on all the info to my mechanic. Or direct me to where I can find the info. WIll the workshop manual have this info? Where can I find a cheap workshop manual?

ALso the first 3 or 4 gears run out very quickly, I'm guessing this is because of my diff and can also be a good thing??

Thanks in advance!

hey this was the reply in another thread so I pasted it here.

For your conversion you need the wiring harness from the gearbox up to the fuse/relay box on the drivers side inner guard for the reverse lights to operate.

For the speedo to work you need the manual speedo gear drive in the box and a manual speedo head or it may be easier to buy a complete cluster second hand.

Dont ask me why Nissan have a manual and auto speedo head, but they do.

Hope that helps.

Stan

Hey got the manual cluster already but sill no work :)

Anyone else?

As far as the reverse lights have you checked if there is a connection to the gearbox?

that was the problem we had on the cefiro when we got it converted. there was no actual connect to the box.

Im assuming ur speedo is a similar problem with the cabling.

The gears running out fast is definitly the diff.

also, if you notice a higher comsumption of fuel its due to the ECU and diff too.

Edited by gHeTTo_GiRL

Reverse switch in the gearbox could be shagged. You can test it with a multimeter or test lamp. There should be two switches in the gearbox (neutral and reverse) each switch has two prongs sticking out under the car, pull the plugs off if they are attached and put your meter across the prongs, then push it in and out of reverse and see if the meter changes.

Try this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=23323&hl=

You have to rewire the manual gearbox reverse lights into the auto loom - they need to be wired to one of the connectors where the neutral lockout switch is now bridged.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...