Jump to content
SAU Community

Can U Just Swap Over A Gtst And Gts Ecu

unarmed_skyline
 Share

Recommended Posts

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Sounds like fund-raising bullshit to me. They don't have differing sensors. Check out a circuit diagram.

I ran my old R34 n/a on the GTT ECU...the only issues were TCS sensors and the like, R33's don't have all the extra bullshit and can just be swapped over.

unarmed_skyline Experienced

unarmed_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh i've turboed my na, and having a few teathing issues, my air flow metre shat its self as they are different between the models, and the ecu is really struggling just keeps leaning out the car even with a safc, my cheapest option is if i can just swap to a turbo ecu n use the safc to tune there but if i have to change the wiring which 3 reputable places that say they have done it before say u have to its not going to be cheaper than say going to dr drift and getting the ecu moddifyed or getting a second hand microtech and hard wiring it then tunning it

unarmed_skyline Experienced

unarmed_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey been searching everywhere for a pinnout diagrame for an na r33 ecu anyone know where i can find one only found the turbo one and it doesnt help when i want to do a comparison

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
Do you mind if I ask why your swaping a NA to Turbo ECU?

My last car was N/A + turbo...put the turbo ECU in to make things easier...isn't so with the R34's too much missing bullshit throws up the "check engine light"

R33's use all the same sensors, they have the luxury of no Turbo pressure sensor, TCS, Secondary throttle motors etc etc

The AFM's are the same between turbo and N/A just different between series 1 and series 2's

unarmed_skyline Experienced

unarmed_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the reckers i got my air flow meter from said they are different, the sensor is slightly diff or something and the barcode/part numbers are different, nothing that i could tell the diff between thou

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just fitted a emanage ultimate for a guy who turboed his NA R34 and the pins were the same. Rpm didnt work though, no biggy i just used the cas signal. This might be what bought on 666DAN engine light??

so i cant imagine why NA 33 would be differrent.

Edited by URAS
666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

RPM should work, my one did on the e-manage blue, I can't see them changing it for the ultimate??

No, there is a lot to the R34 ECU's which cause the engine light, I know them backwards unfortunately/fortunately :laugh:

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
RPM should work, my one did on the e-manage blue, I can't see them changing it for the ultimate??

No, there is a lot to the R34 ECU's which cause the engine light, I know them backwards unfortunately/fortunately :laugh:

i have fitted probaly 20 or so to R33 and about 6 to R34 gtt with Zero issues. The R34 NA one did not like the rpm signal though (it read 5340 at idle :laugh: ) so i swapped it to cas sens and it was sweet. I probaly should have investigated the rpm wierdness but it was not needed.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
i have fitted probaly 20 or so to R33 and about 6 to R34 gtt with Zero issues. The R34 NA one did not like the rpm signal though (it read 5340 at idle :laugh: ) so i swapped it to cas sens and it was sweet. I probaly should have investigated the rpm wierdness but it was not needed.

Interesting, it must be something the ultimate doesn't like. I wonder what the difference to the blue is???

I know for the 350Z you require the rpm signal adapter, maybe it was a late model using a different CAS?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Interesting, it must be something the ultimate doesn't like. I wonder what the difference to the blue is???

I know for the 350Z you require the rpm signal adapter, maybe it was a late model using a different CAS?

yeah late R33 seies two and R34 require the internal ignition signal adapter and jumpe 8 set to 12v instead of 5v.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...