Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I've just installed a Power FC pro (RB251PRO) for my R33 GTST. it's the correct model as far as I can tell.

The hand commander fires up and doesnt hang or anything. There are no errors in the sensor screen. I've turned the boost controller off in the HC.

When I switch to ignition, my fuel pump doesnt prime, and if i crank it it doesnt fire. Replacing it with the stock ECU and fuel pump primes, and it fires up.

Anyone have any ideas ? I'd be really gutted if i cant use this ECU :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154721-car-wont-start-with-powerfc-pro/
Share on other sites

i had a look at mine just now... i dont have the F/P light greyed out until i start the engine... also, the O2H light on mine isnt greyed out either.

i think the pic from the faq is when the engine has started..

i dont no if this is a good or bad idea.. but i did it when i had some fuel pump issues recently, she wouldnt prime etc.. i dont wana see any tears if anything blows up or something though :)

i grounded the neg wire (blue wire if i recall correctly) on the fuel pump connector in the boot and it seemed to bypass the ecu controlling it and make it work :P It was like doing that mod people do to make it run at full voltage or woteva.

could it be a dodgy ground or power feed? and maybe the powerfc is more sensitive to it than the stock ecu ? :S

yes. i've seen this a lot of times. the PFC seems much more sensitve to a good power feed and good earth than the stock ecu. so check your power feed to the ECU, and maybe check your grounds too. or even tee in another ground and run it to a suitable spot.

i dont no if this is a good or bad idea.. but i did it when i had some fuel pump issues recently, she wouldnt prime etc.. i dont wana see any tears if anything blows up or something though :)

i grounded the neg wire (blue wire if i recall correctly) on the fuel pump connector in the boot and it seemed to bypass the ecu controlling it and make it work :P It was like doing that mod people do to make it run at full voltage or woteva.

well, i just spoke to the guy that sold me it. He had it in his 200SX with rb25det dropped in, and he says he had his fuel pump hard wired into the ignition, just as above!

however, I'm just wondering if there is an option perhaps to make the PFC disable/enable the fuel pump control as it seems a bit odd still.

its no different to the normal powerfc so just debug as if it were a normal PFC

can you post up what your sensor / sw check looks like?

did you do factory reset?

any of the sensor names in BLACK highlight (in sensor sw check)

do any switches (in sensor sw check) turn on (black dot) if you try and crank it ?

its no different to the normal powerfc so just debug as if it were a normal PFC

can you post up what your sensor / sw check looks like?

did you do factory reset?

any of the sensor names in BLACK highlight (in sensor sw check)

do any switches (in sensor sw check) turn on (black dot) if you try and crank it ?

I will take a pic of the screen when I try it again today. I'm going to a friends to go over my ecu loom to check the power and grounding.

I did do a factory reset, and i then turned off the boost control. I checked the AFM type and it is set to normal.

none of the names were highlighted in black in the sensor sw check.

Right,

the fuel pump sensor changes to a black dot in the sensor screen when you try to start the car, so it must think that it is activating the fuel pump (but it isnt).

today I grounded the fuel pump so it always pumping when the ignition is on, and the car started. So this means that the fuel pump circuit in the PFC is faulty?

I let it idle for 10 mins, then 10 mins with rear window heater on, then 10 mins with A/C on. However now when i start it up, it sometimes hunts for a few seconds, and also the idle is high (1100rpm). If I drop the clutch and let the revs drop while driving they take a while to go below 1100rpm, and if changing up this can sometimes pull the car forward, so isnt ideal. I can get used to it but maybe someone knows a solution?

would anyone know where the resistors etc are for the fuel circuit on the pfc? I opened it up and the PCB looks fine, no burnt tracks or anything.

finally, will i do any harm running the fuel pump like this. It is an R34 GTR fuel pump, and is 2 stage. It is quite loud anyway, but on idle it used to drop to lower pressure and was a little quieter. Now it is is runing high pressure constantly, will this do any harm?

cheers

adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...