Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , can anyone tell me the differences to expect going from Std disc pads on an R33GTST to RB74 pads .

I have not used anything special in the way of pads in the past so what would be different ?

Cheers A .

The RB74 is a harder pad. It will put up with higher peak temps when braking without fade (reltive to a standard pad). It will also squeal more when cold.

Having used them I would point you in the direction of the Ferodo range instead - particularly the DS 2500 which is a better pad than the RB74.

I installed rb74's with gtr calipers in my r32 and it made a noticable difference.

I used the copper grease, with new std anti sequal shims and it doesnt squeal hot or cold..

My usage is mainly street with a small amount of hard breaking every now and then...

Less initial bite once bedded in but increased resistance to fade when you are having a go. I had them in my r32 for a fair while for daily driving duties and never had any issue with stopping quickly if required. I found they did eventually start to feel a bit ordinary once very hot but they still pulled the car up well, just not confidence inspiring.

They are a good all rounder and good value for money.

have used them for the last 3-4 years in my 33, havent needed to change to others

doing 1:15's around wakefield for full 20 minute sessions and never had an issue with them pulling up, slight change of pedal feel after 20 mins but thats more than likely due to older brake fluid that has done alot of track days without a change.

this is running with dba4000 rotors without slots (long story)

  • 1 month later...

I used them on my 33GTS and I really liked them even though I never took it to a track. When cold they are only marginally not as good, and by the time I've done 1-2 normal stops (like at the end of my street and first intersection after) they would be warm enough to feel great.

The front right wheel was the only one that squealed, I'd clean the brakes and it'd be fine for awhile but come back, in the end I realised it was because of one of the pistons binding slightly causing uneven pad wear on that corner. I was going to overhaul it when I changed the pads the first time but no one had the kit.

Since then Racebrakes had the kit in stock and I overhauled the caliper and never had any squeals since. That's just street driving and weekend twisties driving though, I don't know if they get noisy when they get uber hot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...