Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well i said i would post up some pics when i received the blitz lm fmic and got it all fitted so here they are, im very happy with it, was very easy to fit, everything bolted up perfect, had to cut the bottom of the reo bar a tiny bit but didnt even have to relocate the horns, the hardest part was cutting the front bumper, i wanted to get the bumper sitting flush with the cooler so it would get maxium airflow (if it had gaps around the cooler some of the air would obviously escape around that area instead of going through the cooler) this took lots and lots of cutting and trial fitting but in the end i think it looks great, and the best part is you cant see the pipe running underneath the cooler which i was concernd about.

Thanks to eveyone that took the time to read my thread and give me some advice,tips and post up pics, your help was awsome :)

Heres the pics:

100_1722.jpg

100_1721.jpg

100_1723.jpg

100_1724.jpg

100_1725.jpg

100_1729.jpg

blitzlmfmicnobumper.jpg

SSPX0064.jpg

SSPX0065.jpg

SSPX0066.jpg

I still have to work out were to put my plate as it covers some of the cooler and dosent look to good, also a big thanks to nengun for getting it to me so fast and hassel free.

Cheers

Jason

Edited by nizmo_freek
thats nice!!!! how much boost u running?? is it still running off the stock ecu?? hows the car feel now???

Cheers :stupid:, its still running the standard boost so around 9psi thanks to the exhaust (still need to get a dump/front pipe) ,and yes still running the stock ecu, the car seems to feel a little quicker in the midrange and up high but not by much,i can feel more lag when i hit the next gear but its nothing to complain about, it does seem alot better on hot days ,the car used to feel very sluggish when it was hot so i am very pleased with it :happy:

That's heaps nice mate.. mind if I ask how much it set you back?

It cost me $1135 nzd deleivered from nengun, that will probally sound very expensive comapred to the cheaper chinese made kits but in my opinion it was worth it!

Thanks for the comments :stupid:

i want to stick one of these on my stagea,(anyone got one on there stagea)not real keen on cutting anything & i'm lead to believe you can use existing piping holes & with a dayz bar hopefully no chopping there either.

Just get a Hybrid off EBay for $600-700 and put this mess behind you... Or you could get a trust kit off the trader section. I hear they are quite fantastic

hardly im a dealer for both and the BLITZ is a better kit than the trust and hybrid, both those kit reheat the piping as it crosses the radiator and they also have noticeably more throttle lag than the blitz. We also see lower intake temps with the blitz for those reasons.

  • 8 months later...

Sorry to bring up a thread from so long ago but im about to install one of these kits real soon on my series 1 r33

I've found plenty of peoples pics of there intercoolers mounted but i would love to see how much or preferably how little people have had to chop up there series 1 reo bars.

and what also seems very odd is i would asume most of you have used the supplied brackets yet many of the coolers are sitting much higher / lower on certain peoples cars. (how obvious the return pipe underneither is)

Cheers

Camden

Sorry to bring up a thread from so long ago but im about to install one of these kits real soon on my series 1 r33

I've found plenty of peoples pics of there intercoolers mounted but i would love to see how much or preferably how little people have had to chop up there series 1 reo bars.

and what also seems very odd is i would asume most of you have used the supplied brackets yet many of the coolers are sitting much higher / lower on certain peoples cars. (how obvious the return pipe underneither is)

Cheers

Camden

you cant see the return pipe if fitted correctley. full rrp is $1499 @ autobarn but shop around. Auto-concepts is the new AUSTRALIAN distributor and will match prices.

you cant see the return pipe if fitted correctley. full rrp is $1499 @ autobarn but shop around. Auto-concepts is the new AUSTRALIAN distributor and will match prices.

Buying ones not a prob i've already scored a new kit for $950 but im just trying to get myself sorted for the install whilst i wait for its arrival from japan.... was a really silly time of year to expect something to internationally frieghted... but the exchange rate was good at the time.

like I posted before im real keen on seeing how people have gone about moding the reo bar. for instance has it just been the lower section removed or has the very top needed to have a section notched out etc etc. Im certainlly sure that there are a hell of a lot of ppl on here who have just removed there reo all together which really doesnt flick my switch. I still want to have some crash protection and kind of like my front bar sitting flush with the lights :thumbsup:

I did mine in a day. You need to cut away about 20 mm from the underside of the reo bar. You cut both sides of the bar, making a strait edge instead of a concave. You need a grinder. As for the front bar, use a Dremel multi pro to cut out all other platic away. Measure once cut twice. :thumbsup:. You may need help to make it easier. Good cooler overall.

i used to have the blitz lm kit on my 33 gtst s2 :thumbsup: ive got a reo bar pre-chopped and ready to go if u want :) ??

im in melb 2

obviously there were differences in front bar design between series 1 and 2 but considering we are talking about a reo that has been chopped up a bit would a s2 reo work on my s1 ppl? i guess as long as the bolt on points didnt change on the chassis rails and the front bar curve wasnt to far difference this might work out?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...