Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mate is ditching his RB30DETT for a HKS 2.8L and asked me to find a part number for him :(

Edit: CruiseLiner.. where did you get the block from and how long ago? he's just told me Nissan is sold out and don't make them anymore?0_o

Edited by bubba

got mine about 4 months ago and it was the last one in stock in Oz from memory but the nissan guy said they could supposedly get more (that was his opinion, but everyone else said they are not available anymore).

mine was from Northside Nissan in Perth. Ring them and talk to steve barnes he will be able to get u the right info :(

not cheap but good insurance when going for over 600hp+

Yep, I was looking for an N1 block for a few months. None left in Australia anywhere, theyre on back order in Japan and manufacturing of them still hasnt restarted (and probably never will) so youre going to be extremely hard pressed to find one.

I ended up re-using my standard (I prefer the word 'seasoned') R32 block and the engine builder got Darton to make some custom sleeves for it to add strength to the bore.

Its being used with a JUN 2.7L stroker and will be holding quite a large amount of power.

"...and probably never will...".

I've heard this a couple of time now. Does anyone have a reason or a source for this. It doesnt make any sense to me, plus its kinda scary as my rebuild wil be either a Jun 2.7 or step 1 HKS 2.8 stroker. :happy:

After talking with a few people inside Nissan Australia, they got word from Nissan Japan that manufacturing would resume towards the end of 2006.

Its now getting well into 2007 and it still hasnt started, and theres now no confirmation coming out of Japan that manufacturing will indeed restart.

Even if it does, the list of pre-orders is well into the thousands so you would be in for a long wait if it does come back into production.

So being realistic... I dont think you will ever be able to purchase a new one again :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...