Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While car was being cleaned, some water got into the engine bay. When accelerating the car shudders like hell, and when idling it miss fires every so often. Anyone know what the problem could be? I already went thru the sensors and dryed them out with a airhose, might be the injectors? anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155655-r33-shudders/
Share on other sites

Could water have made it to your coil packs? The valley cover isn't great at keeping water out once the rubber seal cracks up.

I am actually a 1st year apprentice auto electrician, and my boss actually suggested the coil pack. I removed the plugs and cleaned them with some cleaner, then air dried them with a air hose. I haven't managed to check the coils yet. Ive noticed after driving for say 20-30 minutes it actually goes away, but say if i drive the car the next day.. its back again. Any more suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155655-r33-shudders/#findComment-2896413
Share on other sites

Something near the engine, most likely coil packs, needs drying out big time, And not just being blown with a hose.

Set the oven at 120-130Degrees, and put a SPARE coil in, just to check it won't melt.

Then throw in your real ones (Coils shouldn't melt, as they're designed to run at around 100degrees celcius)

The oven is to get the water fully out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155655-r33-shudders/#findComment-2896432
Share on other sites

Also while you're at it, pull the rubber boots of the packs, and check that the hole that the springs sit in are not corroded or anything. Clean it out with cottonbuds and whatever cleaning solution you think is best, line all the springs up on a table and check that they're all the same length roughly. If there are any shorter ones, stretch them out again. Polish up the contact areas etc.

Who knows... you might accidentally fix the problem while checking and cleaning stuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155655-r33-shudders/#findComment-2897030
Share on other sites

Okay today i took the cover off, took all the coils out and no water or residue was inside.. i dried all the sockets anyway but i don't think water is the problem anymore.. it may have started it but i don't believe its there anymore. It may be possible a coil is broken? Because when i took the coils out, i mixed them up and put them back in differently, and even tho the car still misfires at idle, the sound when i accelerate is different.. before it use to just do it when i acclerated heavy.. now it does it even while cruising. Its really starting to annoy me. my car feels so sluggish and it sounds like crap! how much do coils go for roughly and anyone else got feedback?

Ps. thanks for your feedback guys.

Pps. after cleaning all my plugs my hicas light is constantly on now? not sure if thats broken or if its fixed.. my hicas light has never came on before lol..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155655-r33-shudders/#findComment-2903378
Share on other sites

I have the same car and it sounds like you have the same problem I had. Get some splitfire coil packs. fixed my missfire on idle and also no more backfire at 4500 rpm. The old ones will be shorting through the plastic jacket.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155655-r33-shudders/#findComment-2911043
Share on other sites

I know this topic is old news now, but just incase anyone else came across this problem at idle ive found the solution, well for me anyway.... all i needed to do was loosen the little screw on the AAC valve, you will find it at the back of the intake manifold close to the driver side window, there will be a plug connected with a purple plugtop for those who dont know already, it just looks like a normal screw, to increase airflow on idle just turn it counter clockwise while the engine is still running, you should notice a change with one revolution or two.... well fixed my problem anyway :P good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155655-r33-shudders/#findComment-2921055
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...