Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well lucky me.. my drivers side power window cable snapped.

Anyone got any pointers on whom to go too to get a new cable made up instead of replacing the entire regulator assembly - or a good import wrecker in Melbourne dealing with R32 GTRs?

Nissan can get me the entire regulator assembly for $285 odd, plus a 2 week MINIMUM wait order from Japan. Kind of hard to take this option when everything else is still good, plus I would'nt mind being able to drive my car places soon...

Edited by paulR32gtr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155799-r32gtr-power-window-cable-snapped/
Share on other sites

I had the same thing i couldnt find anyone to replace the broken cable so i just went to just jap and did a exchange for a $100 (secondhand) whole assembly so you just bolt it straight back in. The cable actually starts off inside the plastic wheel and i found no possible way of removing the cable with out breaking the pulley in two. Hope this helps :mellow:

Thanks for that - turns out the R32 GTS-t coupe is the exact same part which figures - from Nissanspares in Brooklyn - much easier to come by.. $80 fix!!

Some other guy up in thomastown wanted $220 beacuse it came out of a GTR.... they love those three letters.

Not enough grease in the one I pulled out and filled with grime and sand etc - gave the replacement a good clean and some fresh grease and it's all working heaps better now - much smoother.

Thanks for that - turns out the R32 GTS-t coupe is the exact same part which figures - from Nissanspares in Brooklyn - much easier to come by.. $80 fix!!

Some other guy up in thomastown wanted $220 beacuse it came out of a GTR.... they love those three letters.

Not enough grease in the one I pulled out and filled with grime and sand etc - gave the replacement a good clean and some fresh grease and it's all working heaps better now - much smoother.

Yeh i forgot to mention that the gtst is the same. Good as gold. :)

  • 9 months later...

bit of a pain - fully disassemble the door essentially.

From memory:

1. Remove door trim

2. Remove top weather seal - it slides off but there are some clips in there that need to be pressed in - will piss you off no doubt but exercise patience... it will slide off easily in the end

3. Unbolt glass and remove

4. Undo motor electrical plug

5. I think I might have even unbolted the motor as well - can't remember - if you can get at it might make it easier

6. Unbolt the assembly and slide out

I would also mark or measure the adjustment settings for the four bolts/nuts that hold the reg. assembly in so you can get it back how it was - otherwise takes a little while adjusting to get it perfect.

Good luck!

Edited by paulR32gtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...