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I agree with this, my car also suffers the same prob due to having the flutter, you'll get used to it and you will learn how not to make it stall, theres no need to snap your foot off the accelerator pedal anyhow unless you must break suddenly which happens everynow and again.

if it stalls clutch start it, you will be rolling anyhow, if your good enough just play with the accelerator while the clutch is in until the revs stabilize, you'll get the hang of it

yeh thats cool, it aint a major safety issue. the fact is my car is running rich, which i dont like the sounds of. i want my car to run normal. i understand 'i want the wank factor, i have to accept the stalls.'

ill try new spark plugs. c how it goes.

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would you be talking about red-top sr20s? they actually do have a bov. its right next to the stock intercooler. i use the one off my old 180sx as a paper weight.

No was refering to the redtop rb20dets, found in HR31 skylines.

there are lots of cars out there that run fine with the stock ecu and atmo/no bov. skylines just seem to be the most tempremental with everything to do with turbo motors. look at the sr20. you can screw heaps of boost through it and the ecu won't cut out, the turbo won't spit the exhaust wheel out the back, you can run atmo bovs or no bov without any dramas.

Yea i've noticed that alot... blocked or atmo bov on sr20's dun make em stall just make em pop and fart cos they're running that little bit richer...

My comments about the spark plug's not fixing the main issue is reffering to my personal experience with my own car.. i got a larger turbo fitted (Gt2876r)... blocked bov (cos they couldn't be farked making a return pipe for it)... no tune cos i hit 2 many brick walls and ran out of money very quickly... and its running 6psi and would not stop stalling... i drove back in and they said cos it's not recurculating the air back through the intake pipe (which i never knew about until it happend to me) thats why its stalling and idle hunting.. pissed me off bad especially after all the shit i went though with the 33...

So i got my friend to make my standard bov recurculate back to the intake pipe and it don't stall anymore.. and it dont boost over 6psi cos of the air it leaks (factory design).,. but yea for full blown stalling thats what i meant by "spark plugs wont help" but not for long anyways...

But i need my car tuned real bad... thats my own issue but i thaught i'd share lol ;)

The SR20DET not stalling due to blocked bov on its stock ecu..

You think that could be partially related to the smaller dia afm? Its quite possible the smaller afm prevents 'reversion' if you like. Similiar to that of the design of 'some' welll sorted exhaust manifolds.

It would be interesting to see what happens if one were to fit up an rb20/25 80mm afm and use a safc to modify the signal accordingly WITHOUT any tuning. (i.e HW4 in HW2 out or something along those lines)

Those who have fiddled with an SAFC or read the manual even will know what I mean.

I can confirm that my SR20 definitely stalled when car was near stock. I have a old schoold GFB Hybrid BOV, the type that both plums back and goes to atmo.

I can barely remember a time when it didn't stall or nearly stall when giving it heaps and then backing off suddenly. I have even asked a mechanic to look at the issue, and they couldn't find anything wrong.

The SR20DET not stalling due to blocked bov on its stock ecu..

You think that could be partially related to the smaller dia afm? Its quite possible the smaller afm prevents 'reversion' if you like. Similiar to that of the design of 'some' welll sorted exhaust manifolds.

It would be interesting to see what happens if one were to fit up an rb20/25 80mm afm and use a safc to modify the signal accordingly WITHOUT any tuning. (i.e HW4 in HW2 out or something along those lines)

Those who have fiddled with an SAFC or read the manual even will know what I mean.

Yea I use to have a safc 2.. i think there was the thing to change it between the afm's from different cars exactly like your saying between the sr20's afm and rb's afm... it should actually let the car start up and idle smoothly... but the safc 2's have that feature to stop cars from stalling with the use of decl air thingo

I can confirm that my SR20 definitely stalled when car was near stock. I have a old schoold GFB Hybrid BOV, the type that both plums back and goes to atmo.

i used to own a 180sx with a GFB basic bov on it. it never stalled. another of my mates has a sr20 in a GH sigma with stock AFM and ecu and a bov he made himself, no stalling. his missus has a 180sx with an sr in it. when they got the car it didn't have a bov and didn't stall. now they have a greddy full atmo bov on it and it doesn't stall. another mate has a silvia with an atmo bov, again no stalling. another mate has a 180sx with a ca18 in it. no stalling issue.

yours must be 1 of the very few to do it. i'd check the condition of the spark plugs, and also see what gap and temp they are.

hey i saw a nissan tuner today that specialises in R32,33. 180, 200sx.

he recons drill a small hole in the tin i am using to block it off. that way some air gets out but the majority stays in it.

would this work? or would the smallest hole let out all the air due to the stock psi i am running?

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