Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Aircon Problem

edspaged2

By edspaged2,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

edspaged2 Rising Star

edspaged2

Posted
Posted

G'day people,

I'm having trouble with my aircon. When a/c is turned on via climate control amp, the compressor doesn't turn on. The only way a/c can be turned on is if terminals 5 and 3 from the a/c relay is bridged out. I'm not good with my electrics but i have the following info that may help fing what the problem is.

with ignition left off: 0Volts in all terminals 1,2,3,5

terminals 1,2,3 are 0 ohms. 5th terminal has around 12.5 ohms varying

with ignition turned to ON: 0 volts in terminals 1 and 3, 11.5 volts in terminal 2, 11.4 in terminal 5

terminals 1,2,5 are o ohms. terminal 3 has .88 ohms.

i hope this helps. Cheers :sorcerer:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155956-r32-gtr-aircon-problem/
Share on other sites
edspaged2 Rising Star

edspaged2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, the air comes out cold. I've checked all fuses. I've also checked the diagnostic system for the a/c amp but it only came up with the sun sensor, only because i did it in the shade. I think it may be a problem with the a/c amp or somewhere in the wiring harness, but too much wiring confuses the hell outta me. I've checked the wiring diagram for the a/c in the repair manual under HA-3. If anyone has that diagram and could roughly point out where there may be a bad connection, they are bloody legendary.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Id say its low on gas. Low enough to not engage the clutch on the compressor but still just enough to get the air cool.

So get the system leak tested, repaired, and regassed.

Edited by Godzilla32
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Id be doing the same.

Get it checked out properly. With a set of guages on the system the problem can be isolated in seconds.

If its the wiring issue then obviously you will be looking at the relay switching circuit which is not overly complicated.

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Having a similar problem with mine can bridge the relay and compressor kicks in cold an lovely ran for an hour or so like this then poped the fuse. Checked out the compressor coil pin 5 on the relay in the manual drawing mentioned earlier measures 3.5 Ohms as per the manual (the 12.5 ohms ed is seeing would suggest the coil clutch to me). Looking at said drawing the only thing that can stop the signal from the ECCS control unit is the dual pressure switch. Was wondering if anyone knows if the dual pressure switch will stop the compressor switching on if pressure is to high or only if its to low. R134 gas has much higher head pressure than r12 (the original gas) and if its still the original switch this may be the problem or part of it.

edspaged2 Rising Star

edspaged2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My mate tested the pressure switch and he said it was fine. I think it may be a problem with the a/c amplifier. My mechanic friend was crossing over wires from the fan relay to the a/c relay. I dont know why he did that but must have fried it. The a/c used to work before he did this. He was trying to find out why my thermo fan wouldn't turn on.

  • 2 months later...
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

So you have checked you don't have a dud sensor?

Throw it in to diag mode and have a look at the temperature values from the 4 sensors or what ever it is.

I had a dud cabin air inlet temp sensor, constantly reading -30degree's.. Obviously it would refuse to engage the aircon's compressor as it was too damn cold. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...