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Ah, ok, but these engines are known to randomly blow up (unlike rb20's) and u can never trust the K's on them either, its on average about 3k more for one just after import to aus that has lower k's (wound back but assuming not as much driving was done overseas).. Is there anyone on the site who's bought a 32 GTR and ran stock internals with some 2860's or gtss turboes and not had it let go? Anyone who's has lasted 2 years+?

:happy: I was just thinking about walking towards my R and a rod jumping throught the block by itself. Nothing ever randomly blows up...well maybe if it was build in Iraq it might.

Seriously. Yes there are issues with verification of mileage on these vehicles. Especially as they get older and the market chases lower and lower K vehicles. I purchased mine locally and allowed me to do my own inspection, eveything on my car is consistant with the milage so I'm happy. Best check out the importing sub-forum and ask questions.

My 32R has 2860-5s and makes that sort of hp...it smotes the unbelievers with ease :happy: , I've put 7K on mine since putting them on and its still got excellent oil pressure. The RB26 is a robust mill and provided it is well maintained, supported correctly with right mods, and hugged occasionaly it will last you a long time....If you want to run number its going to cost you one way or the other.

Oh really, so as long as the engine hasn't been race rallied rolled and raped and has had *reasonable* care taken of it, i might not even have to rebuild it.. I was factoring a rebuild on something umm r31 nismoid or something said about buying a r32 gtr and immediately budgeting for a rebuild, but if this isn't the case (assuming also that the engine is in good condition) i might not even have to rebuild it, which would be sweet, thanks dude

It all depends on what you buy, your not buying a barina here. These cars are legenday and every person that has ever owned one has hit the limiter and experience a bit of understeer, thats why we buy them...to drive them.

I'm budgeting for a rebuild but only because i'm after more power. I'd shop well and spend the cash on the right mods and be O.K. with the fact that eventually it will need a rebuild. I should probably say that my R isnt a daily driver...I only drive it for fun and fun aint cheap.

Trying to break one is easy...keeping one that doesn't break is harder.

What you after a reliable eleven second car?

Are you confident with the parts you have now?

The easiest thing is to slap on a larger set of Turbo's for power gain ,but this will result in major Engine damage.

These are the following things you need to look at with a RB26 REBUILD

FOR OIL- PUMP.COOLER,BAFFLE.

FOR WATER- PUMP, FLUSH.

FOR PETROL- PUMP,REGULATOR,INJECTORS.

FOR ELECTRONICS- COMPUTER,COILS,PLUGS,BOOST CONTROL.

FOR AIR- FILTER,INTER-COOLER,DUMPS, EXHAUST,TURBO'S.

MOTOR- PISTONS,CRANK,CAMS,RODS,BOLTS,SPRINGS,SHIMS etc,etc,etc,

The power level you are chasing although quite mild makes hardly much difference in the mods.you

Choose...all need to be looked at and upgraded.

After this you have not even looked suspension, tyres, brakes or any cosmetic mods. yet..lol. :)

Then there is labour which will cost to fit all the above and tune your car.

So take your time and set a budget every year for mods.and supporting mods.

On the other hand: :D

GT2680-5 Turbo's,N1 Petrol Pump-Regulator,700CC Injectors ,Power-fc ,Tomie/ Poncams-adjustable timing gears, boost controller will see you with a safe tune at 320AWKW's and in the 11's.

This will cost you approx.$8K parts and labour.

But will only suggest the above if you have new oil/water pump, timing belt/bolts renewed.

This is another $2K.

This is not a motor re-build...but I am like the others...if it ain't broken...why fix it?

Hope I have been of some help

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