Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t type M

-Black coupe

-5 speed manual

-120,000kms

-Log books

-Full exhaust system ( 3Inch split front dump pipe / Catco hi-flow cat / Cat back )

-Strut brace front n rear

-CD MP3 Player

-Tinted winders

-3 point alarm system

-Owner manual

-Repair manual

This car is immaculate, in above average condition.No accidents or Rust .Had major service done all fluids

/ fuel / air / spark plugs / brakes / timing belt and suspension bushes changed with receipts, tyres 85% 10 months rego. I searched long and hard to find this car.Reason for sale money needed for investments.

$ 11,300 / Offers or can sell with std parts fitted.

Only genuine buyers only strickly NO TYRE KICKERS / NO SWAPS / NO TRADES

Located at Liverpool NSW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156671-for-sale-r32-gts-t-5-speed/
Share on other sites

Come on guys and girls this car is well worth a look

Car looks great. i would be interested but im located in QLD and im not sure how much mucking around is involved in registering in QLD.

Car looks great. i would be interested but im located in QLD and im not sure how much mucking around is involved in registering in QLD.

Hey mate thanks for the interest if you like I can ring the RTA and find out what is involved and

get back to you.As far as I am aware there isn't to much involved, just pay a small fee when you

transfer the rego and get new QLD plates.

Hey mate thanks for the interest if you like I can ring the RTA and find out what is involved and

get back to you.As far as I am aware there isn't to much involved, just pay a small fee when you

transfer the rego and get new QLD plates.

Yeah could be worth finding out for me. But if theres crap about going over the engineering of the car to transfer to QLD, its not worth me looking at NSW cars. Just a rumour i've heard.

Yeah could be worth finding out for me. But if theres crap about going over the engineering of the car to transfer to QLD, its not worth me looking at NSW cars. Just a rumour i've heard.

Hey mate I'll have to wait till Monday to give them a ring.As for the engineering side of things I

can't speak for QLD but here in NSW we have to get a pink slip every time we renew the rego

to make sure it is road worthy, which I have only just got recently.The rumour you heard maybe

just as simple as a road worthy ticket which only cost roughly $30 or so.

PS:If there is any one out there that has any idea about interstate buyers could they please inlighten me.

hey dude thanks for the pm ... i am interested in a swap though if u want to have a look at my car click on the link below

PRELUDE

Hey mate I'm keen on a sale out right sorry.I hope you have luck getting what your after.

Thanks for getting back to me

Hi all for any serious interstate buyers I've rang the RTA to find out what is involved

Both buyer and seller signs the rego papers(Seller keeps one half Buyer keeps other

along with the pink slip and a receipt ) The buyer then has to get a Blue slip which

only cost around $70-$90 mark.(Road worthy ticket)They then go to the RTA with

all the above documents,cash in the CTP & Rego for a refund hand over the old

plates re-register the car in there name and receive new plates with 12months rego

and presto simple as.The refund on the old rego should cover most of the new

rego because my car still has 10months left, also you don't have to pay for a transfer

because the car is getting re-registed straight into your name saving quite a bit of money.

PS:As for getting a blue slip for my car I'm a mechanic by trade and I asure you

it will pass any test with flying colours as it is 100% road worthy and mechanicly sound

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...