Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi to all!

well i am an apprentice sheet metal worker im 23 and doing an adult apprenticeship i have been mucking about with metal since i was about 14...here are some of my projects i am making and planning to make

post-28208-1171702477.jpg

post-28208-1171703454.jpg

ok first up i made this air filter adapter out of 1.6mm thickness stainless steel sheet and 75 mm 3" tube...

preperation is the key to tig welding something of this nature can bu "fused " together this is when you apply heat to a concentrated area and the join simply melts together you move on at a steady rate keeping an eye on the moulten pool this is fusing....to have a successful fuse you must have the two edges of material clean and as close as possible if you you try to fuse 2 peices with a small gap it will simply burn away leaving a hole or even bigger gap to fill! and it suxs been down that road.. this is an un pollished part at the moment stainless can be pollished to a number 4 finish using scotch brite scouring pad...this is food grade finish! not that i will be eating off this..high pollishing is possible with the right buff wheels..i found this finish is enuf.

post-28208-1171703605.jpg

post-28208-1171703782.jpg

ok second here is the first oil catch can i made ...it was originally made for my buggy (turbo suburu single seat buggy full custom) but i am using it to mock up the hose arrangement as my car is off the road turbo is at Slides....

ok once again stainless steel used 4 inch tube, 2 end caps, small pipe to fit air filter,

i will add step by step pictures when available monday or tuesday...

but basically this was all fused together bar the inlet pipes where the metal was not touching some filler rod was used (filler rod is stainless steel in a rod form usually 1.5 to 2mm thick sizes vary) you start by "tacking' the end cap on place a tack every 1 cm or so to hold in place securely then lightly dolly /tap with a small hammer to close the gap around the join no gap it what you want.. then proceed to fuse it on you may want to do about a 4 cm long strip then using a wet rag cool the metal by placing the rag directly on it this will prevent the metal from warping due to excessive heat. take your time it will come out better if you do it right! ok thats it for now till pictures arrive

post-28208-1171703884.jpg

post-28208-1171703973.jpg

post-28208-1171704084.jpg

number 3 here is a heat shield i made in around thirty minutes very simple only tool used was grinder tig a press and gilotene

ok i now the press and the gilotene are out of the question for most..but it all can be done with a hammer tig welder gringer and thats about it. same applies for fusing this as stated above preperation is the key!!

if you have the tig to hot or incorrectly sharpened it whill burn unevenly and you want nice even penetration and not to much a that!

i will be adding more and more as i go am currently making an alloy air box here is some other pics just of what is possible with a bit of time and patience!

hope this helps any question just pm me if this isnt detailed enuf let me know can get right down to the nitty gritty!

cheers

soon to be alloy air box..

post-28208-1171705033.jpg

post-28208-1171705160.jpg

bit of time turned this

post-28208-1171705390.jpg

into this: nuthing to special but an improvement

post-28208-1171705589.jpg

post-28208-1171705870.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156809-my-fabrication-tips-and-projects/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...