Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im having some issuse regarding my idle.It hunts between 1100 and 1600rpm.Ive tried many things to fix it.New plugs,cleaning the ACC but nothing seems to work.Some people have said it might be my TPS(throttle position sensor)

How do i get it reset?

Help me solve my problem as its been like this for 2 weeks now and is driving me crazy.

CHEERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156845-r33-tps/
Share on other sites

The TPS is your throttle position sensor. Im not quite sure what you mean by does this mean i dont have a throttle cable? Because of cause it has a throttle cable going to the throttlebody to open and close the butterfly. The tps is used to monitor the postion of the throttle. Take the TPS off and give the end a clean its possible that it could be giving you grief. Have you tried cleaning your AFM aswell?

Edited by fEkuaR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156845-r33-tps/#findComment-2913622
Share on other sites

afm clean: use electrical contact cleaner... p.s i wouldnt be pulling the tps off, its set to a specific point, very important it stays there unless you mark it perfectly. tried cleaning your throttle body? for that you can use carby clean. also tried resetting your ecu?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156845-r33-tps/#findComment-2913644
Share on other sites

OK ive pulled the AFM off and found that there is a film of oil all around the inside of it.Seeing as its oil i cleaned it out with degreaser and is drying in the sun.will fit it in 10 and tell you the verdict.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156845-r33-tps/#findComment-2913692
Share on other sites

How the hell are you getting blow by, if there is no point for the engine to dump oil into before the air flow meter?

It goes, POD filter, AFM, normally then recirc line pretty close in (From BOV), then turbo...

I don't understand how you claim blow by as the cause?

When you cleaned the air valve, did it have a HEAP of crap built up in it? (Black carbon) and when you finished did it all look nice and new?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156845-r33-tps/#findComment-2913946
Share on other sites

How the hell are you getting blow by, if there is no point for the engine to dump oil into before the air flow meter?

It goes, POD filter, AFM, normally then recirc line pretty close in (From BOV), then turbo...

I don't understand how you claim blow by as the cause?

When you cleaned the air valve, did it have a HEAP of crap built up in it? (Black carbon) and when you finished did it all look nice and new?

The rocker cover breathers plumb back into the intake pipe in front of the turbo. It doesn't dump it in before the AFM it just gets a residue there and the oil builds up to a pool. I have removed a few intake pipes that have a good 20-30ml of oil in them when the turbo has been completely fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156845-r33-tps/#findComment-2913974
Share on other sites

The rocker cover breathers plumb back into the intake pipe in front of the turbo. It doesn't dump it in before the AFM it just gets a residue there and the oil builds up to a pool. I have removed a few intake pipes that have a good 20-30ml of oil in them when the turbo has been completely fine.

And has it been built up in the AFM...

Remember, the air is being sucked from air filter, to afm, to breather pipe, to turbo...

It's not going backwards.

And the AFM sits higher then where the breather pipes join, so it can't "run" there when cold.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156845-r33-tps/#findComment-2914005
Share on other sites

And has it been built up in the AFM...

Remember, the air is being sucked from air filter, to afm, to breather pipe, to turbo...

It's not going backwards.

And the AFM sits higher then where the breather pipes join, so it can't "run" there when cold.

When the turbo reverts air, it bounces back and forth between the air filter and compressor wheel. This is how it gets there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156845-r33-tps/#findComment-2914014
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the thread is only nearly 20 years old.
    • Been down in Tassie for 2 weeks (a cruise, not a race for once) but spent a little time on her when I got back. I worked out the injector settings in the PowerFC were not correct for nismo 555s, set those to 66% +10ms and added a little air at closed throttle, set the timing (approximately, because it has some weird non 15o cells around idle) and now she starts and idles properly. She purrs like a kitten (ignore the co2 alarm in the background, I did  ) 20250518_171052.mp4 Next step, off for run-in, tuning and alignment!
    • Went to a drift practice day at a local circuit (held on the reserve parking area behind the grandstand) for the first time in about 15 years. Some kei cars were drifting as well, a not so surprising Suzuki Carry truck, and two 1st gen Daihatsu Copens that were converted to rear wheel drive(!) using Daihatsu Boon X4 transfer case, prop shaft and rear diff, obviously omitting the front driveshafts. They looked really fun to slide. I heard that they cost "about half" as much as a Nissan Silvia etc to run.  On the track 'Tech M' a local BMW tuning garage had a customer track day. Mainly recent models but there was one E36 which looked ancient among all the current models. It was cool watching the drifting and then turning around and seeing random people thrashing their M3/4s  central-circuit-drift-practice-2025-05-18-long-yt.mp4
    • I prefer it with those wheels (sacrilege?) 😋 Here's a photo of a fully original one for reference. The price is $350K....
    • I would like to keep it around 15k but if I need more to make it reliable and not have to worry about the car breaking I can go more. It's my project car so I'm just trying g to figure out what needs to be in it i know basic things like turbo cams injectors I'm just unsure of the size and the specifics so I'm spending alot of time on Google and its mostly rb25 and rb26 not alot on neo
×
×
  • Create New...