Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and well no ticking when cold, only when hot.

this is the final proof you need it's the manifold or dump or turbo gasket. as when cold everthing is nicely sealed. once things heat up and start to expand your leak begins.

wogs, it's all to do with the quality of the gasket material.

I'll give you an example. With aftermarket gaskets, say like the dump gasket, they're usually two pieces of thin foil with goo sandwitched between.

Those are pretty crap, and don't last that long. The crap in the middle can get blown out and it leaks.

The genuine nissan dump gasket/turbo to manifold gasket is a solid metal gasket. I think it's copper.

It's really hard work to do all the gaskets/studs. As 31nismoid said, it'll be 6-800 if you get a workshop to do it, and the same amont of work if you do it yourself.

That's why I always use genuine gaskets, coz I don't want to have to do it again.

Think of it this way, your nissan gaskets have lasted 10 year. If you do it now, it'll last another 10. That's not much in the scheme of things. If you use goo gaskets, they might blow in 2 years.

If the gasket material of the aftermarket gasket is good, then that's cool. use it. but check it. don't get it just coz it's chepaer

Hi,

Can you hear the ticking pretty easily when standing next to the side of the car or do you actually have to be under or in the engine bay to hear it? Reason I ask as mine makes a ticking noise when cold but I notice it dissapears when hot. I noticed it after I changed to a different brand of oil. I went to Motul instead of Mobil 1

Cheers

Chris

you can hear it slightly if the bonnet is shut and standing next to the car, but if you put your head down, you can hear it easily.

I have also swithced to a different oil, however i do not think that is my problem. Time will tell.

[Threadjack]

I have a strange ticking noise when I give my car a little rev, dont think it's the injectors. On idle there is no ticking but if I rev it to say 2000rpm it's ticking while rev goes up. If I hold the rev at 2000 it doesn't tick. It's only there when I rev it :)

[/Threadjack]

  • 3 years later...

Hey guys,

Sorry for the thread digging - but I like searching for past info then dump the same problems in new threads. I think I've got the same gasket problem mentioned here but need your guys advice!!

Anyway, I drove hard at Eastern Creek on friday - on the drive home out of nowhere I start hearing this noise - similar to what has been said in the above posts.

It's a ticking sound, pretty much coming solely from the turbo. Here's a vid I took.

The coilpack cover/turbo heat shield and other bits and pieces have been removed to specify the source of the noise, there usually in place normally.

What do you reckon? Gaskets?

Oh, I should also add

oil pressure remains fine, car feels very underpowered, still on stock boost, but I can get maybe around 5psi out of the turbo if i give it a real bootful (which I'm not really inclined to do)

Mods are:

3" turbo back

FMIC

Turbosmart boost tee

Stock ECU

Change tha damn gasket Floyd!!

It sounds like the manifold to turbo gasket has blown out a part of the gasket.

Replace with a new genuine nissan one and it'll be sweet!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...