Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When i bought my 32 it had a 33GTR fuel pump to help with boost levels of over 17psi.

With the AFC and ITC tuned to perfection the car tended to ping at high rpm due to lack of fuel. However the pump and injectors are easily up to supplying an RB20 with only 200 or so KW.

I had a rising rate fuel regulator fitted and set it at 4psi above standard.

Pinging stoped immiediatly but it now uses heaps more fuel. Not so much just on boost but just starting the engine and dribling around town.

The car almost chokes on fuel around town and you can here it discarding extra fuel through the exhaust with pops, burbles and sometimes a loud bang!

All sound good to me if you don't mind a few extra $$$$$ a week in fuel.

This could all be bullshit though because the garage that sold me the fuel reg @$280 plus $30 to install also did the dyno tune @ $80 plus $40 to adjust tune. When all they may have done is tuned the fuel/air ratio to be richer.

I'll post up in a week or so as i'm upgrading to the 044 (700hp)

noise doesn't bother me diddly squat as all the sound deadening in the boot had been ripped out before i brought the car.

So i guess i'm the guinea pig here. I have to get something bigger as i've got no fuel as it stands.

If i loose 50km per tank that won't be too bad... but anymore and i won't be happy !

stay tuned

i don't think the pump is the main problem in these cases.. you play with the a/f ratios to get more performance you're gonna use more fuel.. To get that right ratio, if you need another pump, then your ratios are tuned accordingly.

v-spec: 2 maps would be great for everyday driivng. Prob is you tune for highboost most of the time, so when you're running low boost you waste the extra fuel. oh well.. if u don't like it: remove fuel pump altogether and 100% fuel economy :)

Hey Steve

Since ive had my car back ive been cruising all the way...squirt here and there..and 1 drag :)

Ive had the car back for almost a week and on the 1st tank that is what i recorded.

Off boost fuel is the killer not on boost it seems If i drive it hard the economy doesnt get much worse

Predator i think the whole playing with the fuel system is the problem

Pump,Turbo change,Intercooler,BOV,Airpod change,Fuel Reg and SAFC all play a part i think

When I had my 910 fitted it did run richer and lost quite a bit of power. The mid range also felt flatter.

I didn't notice a drop in fuel consumption as if i press the odometer fill the tank I will still hit 470 as the red light flicks on.

The lowest I have hit was 400km's per tank on 15psi of boost hammering through the hills.

I have got different injectors however. They are C18 370cc Injectors. Maybe they are super clean or some thing?!?!

Just a thought.....

According to the specs..

An R32 is supposed to get 10.5L per 100km's.

An R33 is supposed to get less than a R33 per 100km's.

I have also heard of near stock R32's also getting bad fuel economy which to me is under 400km's per tank.

Maybe the O2 Sensor isn't working correctly and causing the car not to enter closed loop mode quick enough combined with possibly dirty injectors???

Hi guys, if the air fuel ratio is tuned at 12 to 1 all through the rev range. The ECU will add 1 part of fuel to 12 parts of air. It does not matter whether you have a standard pump, a GTR pump or a Bosch pump. My suggestion when you change fuel pumps and/or fuel pressure regulators is always to get the A/F ratios checked on the dyno, costs less than a tank of fuel. This will also show up any lambda sensor problems.

Dirty injectors restrict fuel flow, that would improve fuel economy and increase risk of detonation. I have seen dirty injectors increase power as the car was running rich.

Hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...