Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the info Steve, there's some good stuff there.

I got the error codes out of the ECU, and it got an error 13, which is apparently a Coolant Temp Sensor error. Does anyone know if this is referring to the sensor near the block, just near the pressure reg, or the one on the radiator? i suspect the one near the block is for the ECU, and the one on the radiator just runs the gauge, does that sound right?

And should this error stop the ECU from starting the engine, or is it something it should be able to ignore? (i'm going to fix the sensor anyway)

Another thought i had is that maybe i need to connect the neutral switch from the (manual) gearbox up, which i haven't done yet. would this be affecting it as well?

Thanks again for any help guys,

Adam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15777-rb20det-conversion-wont-start/
Share on other sites

Thge ECUtemp sender and the gauge temp sender are next to each other on the pipe returning to the top radiator. The ECU sender has a yellow plug. The sender in the radiator is a switch for the A/C thermatic fan.

The fact that the ECU sender has a fault shouldn't stop the engine from starting.

What you have done (pull a coil/plug) is the simplest way to test for spark. Its likely the igniter module (on the top of the engine at the back) is faulty. See if you can get hold of another one.

see if you can clear the error (ECU reset). Often, something silly like disconnect the connector on the sender while engine running will trigger the fault code.

Clear the code, then if it reoccurs, its likely the sender is faulty.

I have a sneaking suspicion i may have killed some of the wiring in that area, damn nissan engineers. There are two wires in the ecu loom that are identically marked (black, red trace, silver spot) and the same gauge, sitting right next to each other. One of them is the IGN +12v line for the ecu, the other is some random ground line. So of course first time round, i spliced 12v into the wrong one didn't i?, turned the igntion on to see if i had 12v at the ecu connector (thankfully without the ecu plugged in, and all i got was a very warm, slightly melted ground line : ( I was hoping that it might have just melted the insulation off the wire, and that the core and surrounding wires were ok, but it seems now that i've killed the sender wire. The sender itself seems ok, reads 2.2k, which is better than open or closed i guess. hopefully it's just the wire, and hopefully just that one. But it does mean i have to pull the loom out from the intake manifold, unwrap the whole thing, check the wires and re wrap it all.

Oh well, i guess it might be a good chance to pull the injectors out and see if they're working.

well after a weekend spent troubleshooting the various components, unwrapping the entire loom, replacing the wire i melted, putting the loom back together, removing the fuel rail (without removing the manifold!) testing the injectors, unblocking 2 of them, cleaning up all the ground points, and lots of head scratching, i finally got the thing going.

I hadn't killed anything, which was a relief, but in the end it turned out that i didn't have 12v to the coils (which i should have checked ages ago of course...) because the coils get there 12v feed from a different point to the rest of the loom. I piece of wire, and 1 spade terminal later, the car fired immediately, after only cranking for like 1 second. So now after 18 months my nicely rebuilt RB20DET is finally running. I am the happiest guy in the world at the moment : ).

Now i just have to get the rest of the car roadworthy....

Thanks heaps to all the guys who offered assistance and advice, it was all helpfull and much appreciated.

Cheers,

Adam

Great to hear it all finally paid off. If you get the chance, post some pics up - always nice to see a unique project come together. Perhaps even a few words on what to watch out for, just incase there is anybody else out there planning a similar engine upgrade.:D

Cheers

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...