Jump to content
SAU Community

For Anyone Who's Been Ripped Off Etc - Don't Give Up - There Is Still Some Decency Left In The World!


Recommended Posts

this thread is basically just a big thankyou to Adrian of South Geelong, VIC, but i also wanted to share it with you all to show that there is still some decency left in the world.

basically, adrian was selling 8 r33 gts-t gearboxes on ebay for a very decent price - the low price as a result of the fact that he was getting 8 of them in from japan in bulk. at the time i asked for his mobile # etc, called him, discussed it for 10 minutes etc it all seems sweet.

ebay1.jpg

so buy it now i clicked, and after swapping details i deposit $800 into his account for 1 x R33 gearbox.

time passes, he keeps in touch via email etc. assuring it's on way. sure enough after a while nothing. i contact him via email, that way it's all down in writing. after numerous emails, he finally replies, mentioning the jap end had done a dodgy on him, and now he can't come good with the r33 gearbox and that he is majorly out of pocket.

over the next 18 months i made an inordinate amount of phone calls, emails and even correspondence to his home address, to make sure I'd receive my money owing.

well he did refund me some money every now and then, albeit in broken amounts each time, and low and behold, today, i got my fourth instalment from him (see internet banking screengrab below) to complete a full refund of the $800 he owed me.

bank1.jpg

So, Adrian, big thanks for getting my money back to me, regardless of the fact that it took only 18 months.

And for you forum readers, if you think you've been scammed, or it seems the person is not willing to refund your money, take solace in the fact that there are still some decent people left in the world, just like Adrian who I dealt with, that will in good time get you your money back to ensure a satisfactory result.

Sorry if this bored you to death. Lessons learnt for me:

1 - Caveat Emptor (watch out if it's too cheap)

2 - Caveat Emptor (if the seller is interstate and you can't pay him/her a visit in person easily)

and finally,

3 - Caveat Emptor

cheers, MARK

Lucky you Mark.. whats with the transaction description though lol?

dunno

guess he just felt like leaving me a nice message to read when i checked my statement

I also got riped off kind of for a whille, I bought a cooler core from a guy in syd, he said he sent it, 4 weeks later nothing??? I was at aust post everyday checking, "so was he" as he says, then i get a email saying

"look I think someone has stolen it in the mail I am going oversea's for 6 months, Ive sent ANOTHER cooler, enjoy"

2 days later I recive my cooler and I emailed him 2 days ago, and he says the other cooler is still missing, I just though it was nice of him that instead of me been out of pocket he decided to do nice thing and cut his losses. But when I recived the cooler I now know WHY it went missing the first time the box said

"HYBIRD INTERCOOLER" in big ass writting on the box :( . Now wasen't that stupid of him to send something like that over Normal mail not reg mail.

But good me for I recived my cooler :happy::happy:

i can somehow guess the subject and contents of those communications between you and him based on the netbank comment.

lucky you for getting out of it alive. 18 months is bloody ages. If he can't get it, too bad. He should have paid you back straight away.

Sucked in to him. That's what you get for trying to sell things before you take possession of them. nothing good ever comes from that.

He sounds like a scammer anyways

i can somehow guess the subject and contents of those communications between you and him based on the netbank comment.

funnily enough all communications between us were friendly to be honest. it's only that last thing he did he wanted to vent his frustration perhaps.

funnily enough all communications between us were friendly to be honest. it's only that last thing he did he wanted to vent his frustration perhaps.

i call bs! you were terrorising the c*nt to make him pay up werent you? :( good stuff!

i call bs! you were terrorising the c*nt to make him pay up werent you? :) good stuff!

would have all been over a lot quicker if he'd lived in sydney

i got done over by a ebay user two years ago. once i sussed out his details and worked out he lived at kellyville, an early saturday morning visit to his house brought the sour ebay transaction to an early resolution

LOL i love writing shit like that in my transaction details

hehe yeah. one guy who bought stuff off me put sexual favours for the transaction details. nevertheless, my accountant when doing my tax return just had to ask me about it.

that "f**k you" still deserves a swift kick in the face. not your problem the asshole got ripped.

he should have gotten the boxes before selling them.

at least you got your cash back.

yeah i reckon. cant complain. so many other people have been f**ked over without getting one penny back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...