Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like to improve the feel of my steering and would like some opinions on what are the best upgrades.

Currently I only have minor suspension mods. whiteline springs, shcoks and swaybars. all my bushes are factory and are in reasonable condition. there are no bumps, shakes or rattles. the steering just feels a spongy and not as responsive as it could. there is very little play and the rack in in good condition.

What are good ugrades to do to increase the response of the steering. and where can I get them from..

I was thinking steering spacer made of alluminium insted of the rubber one, new steering rack mounts.

what other bushes will improve the feel

I am a complete novice when it comes to steering and suspension. I know engines gearboxes and diffs but have never had anything to do with steering.

Thanks!

alloy steering bush will make a big difference in feel

also seen replacement rack mounting rubber bushes made from alloy or nolthane probably worth getting

adjustable castor rods are also a good idea for one of the first mods you should do

I had been thinking about castor rods. but have been told by 2 workshops and SK that spherical bearings are not a good idea.

can someone recommend any? also where to buy steering spacer?

Get the Whiteline castor bushes from the groupbuy, or they make an adjustable rod aswell, with bushes, not spherical bearings.

Steering spacer can be bought off a guy on here, NV_N01, $30 if I remember right, but PM him and get the proper price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...