Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well now the dust has settled its got me to thinkin. I have been led to believe that the power figure i am chasing is piss easy to attain without major dramas at all. however, If as we have been told, the all stars dyno is true and correct then there arent many cars getting over 200 rwkw much less 250 or even 300.

My goal is to build a genuine 250 rwkw car with useable power. In other words, I want TORQUE. Horsepower without torque is just sex without a woman and we all know what that makes you

question is, just how far in the mod department do i have to go to achieve my aim.

My current mods to achieve the neck snapping 178 rwkw we saw on saturday are as follows.

good pipes from turbo back

apexi pod filter

apexi lightened flywheel

ceramic 5 puck clutch

largish fmic

safc2 piggy back

next round of mods will be

550cc injectors

larger fuel pump

splitfire coil pak

better ecu

new turbo

and the minor stuff like fuel reg, boost control etc.

For those with similar specs on a rb25 engine. What power figures have you attained, What does your torque curve look like.

I wasnt going to touch the cams at this stage but i am now wondering wether i should or not

All thoughts welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158102-tine-to-get-serious/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

quick word of advice, id go to forced induction and post this....or do some research in there, there is a lot of good info in the numerous threads there. A lot of things will depend on your turbo choice and budget.

quick word of advice, id go to forced induction and post this....or do some research in there, there is a lot of good info in the numerous threads there. A lot of things will depend on your turbo choice and budget.

I hear u Niz, but there are too many backward baseball cap types in there. I have already met quite a few of the local mob and i am confident that there is enough experience locally to get the job done, If there isnt then i will definitely go to a wider audience. cheers.

I hear u Niz, but there are too many backward baseball cap types in there. I have already met quite a few of the local mob and i am confident that there is enough experience locally to get the job done, If there isnt then i will definitely go to a wider audience. cheers.

fair enough, well until someone decides that this should be moved....what is your budget?

quick word of advice, id go to forced induction and post this....or do some research in there, there is a lot of good info in the numerous threads there. A lot of things will depend on your turbo choice and budget.

Yep agree with that.^^

Im no expert, but i have been told to save ur money when it comes to splitfire coilpacks unless you are running huge HP it probly wouldnt be a big advantage to what you are going to run.

fair enough, well until someone decides that this should be moved....what is your budget?

What am I missing here. Is this place not for qld peeps to discuss their lines.

As for my budget, suffice to say it will be sufficient to cover the usual brand nmae mods..Nizmo...Garrett etc.

contact 3lit3 32

hell hold ur hand thru the process..

if u only want a usable 250kw go with the hiflow slide turbos :P

They are on the short list under turbos marki. Very good option with tons of low/midrange squirt by all accounts.

What am I missing here. Is this place not for qld peeps to discuss their lines.

As for my budget, suffice to say it will be sufficient to cover the usual brand nmae mods..Nizmo...Garrett etc.

ok, well as subzero33 has mentioned splitfires wont be necessary for you UNLESS you are having problems with your coils atm. If you want a new ecu then an Apexi PFC will probably be your best avenue (buy one soon Apexi Japan has filed for bankrupty and PFC have ceased production), however you would be able to get away with something along the lines of the SAFC you already have. Your turbo selection will be critical but you wont want anything too big as you want usable power, so something along the lines of a 25/30 would probably be fine. There are countless numbers of turbo companies who make turbos of this size including, HKS, Trust (greddy), Apexi etc. (Garrett make the turbo housings for a lot of these companies) the wheels are made by the actual companies. You will be able to keep your standard manifold (possibly need an adaptor plate)As far as cams go, they would probably be unesessary because the turbo you'll run wont be too laggy. You will need injectors and probably a new fuel pump as mentioned. Get cam gears so you can adjust the your timing. You'll need a boost controller (if you get a PFC you'll buy the boost kit, if not) any decent electronic one will do.

Basicly you don't need a lot to get to 250rwkw and with your torque worries if you dont get a huge turbo with mass lag it wont matter as you'll be on boost before you know it.

ok, well as subzero33 has mentioned splitfires wont be necessary for you UNLESS you are having problems with your coils atm. If you want a new ecu then an Apexi PFC will probably be your best avenue (buy one soon Apexi Japan has filed for bankrupty and PFC have ceased production), however you would be able to get away with something along the lines of the SAFC you already have. Your turbo selection will be critical but you wont want anything too big as you want usable power, so something along the lines of a 25/30 would probably be fine. There are countless numbers of turbo companies who make turbos of this size including, HKS, Trust (greddy), Apexi etc. (Garrett make the turbo housings for a lot of these companies) the wheels are made by the actual companies. You will be able to keep your standard manifold (possibly need an adaptor plate)As far as cams go, they would probably be unesessary because the turbo you'll run wont be too laggy. You will need injectors and probably a new fuel pump as mentioned. Get cam gears so you can adjust the your timing. You'll need a boost controller (if you get a PFC you'll buy the boost kit, if not) any decent electronic one will do.

Basicly you don't need a lot to get to 250rwkw and with your torque worries if you dont get a huge turbo with mass lag it wont matter as you'll be on boost before you know it.

All sound advoce Matt, but, As i stated. there were a lot of cars there on saturday that met and or exceeded that mod list that didnt cut the mustard. What am I missing, or, what are they missing.

Whilst the stock coils are ok I have been led to believe that a large horsepower increase on 14 year old coils will only work for so long. best to get it all done in one hit.

I have been led to believe that a large horsepower increase on 14 year old coils will only work for so long. best to get it all done in one hit.

The coils on one of my R32's I had with basic mods craped out at 12psi. These cars are getting old, I would replace them.

Then again, I tend to do things other may not.

what some of those cars were missing, was a good dyno.

noel, basically ur after the same setup as andy (bunta) tuesday nite get him to tell u his specs and what he's made power wise.

basically u need:

turbo

fuel pump

injectors

power fc

boost controller (dual solenoid is best, so blitz id3 or hks evc 5)

then if u wanted better mid range (whcih u'd want) get some cams, say 264's with ~9.5mm lift

cam gears

a good tune and ur laughing!

oh u'd prolly also want some new coilovers and pads & rotors to put the power to the ground and to pull it up.

speak to dan regarding parts, as he can do very good prices :P

The coils on one of my R32's I had with basic mods craped out at 12psi. These cars are getting old, I would replace them.

Then again, I tend to do things other may not.

I agree but there will be no difference until they stuff up so why waste the money until you need to..not like lack of ignition one day is going to damage your engine...but hey it wont do any harm putting them in, im just talking in the interest of money....if money isn't important I can write a much longer list to give you much better results.

btw I ran splitfires and they were good, but they are no different to stock unless your running big boost and high horsepower.

All sound advoce Matt, but, As i stated. there were a lot of cars there on saturday that met and or exceeded that mod list that didnt cut the mustard. What am I missing, or, what are they missing.

Whilst the stock coils are ok I have been led to believe that a large horsepower increase on 14 year old coils will only work for so long. best to get it all done in one hit.

specs of said cars (what turbo did they have) and what boost they were running?

Also who tuned their cars...it's not as hard as you think it is...the cars must have something lacking, ie. Rich afr's (bad tuning), low boost, or other such problems because i've seen 1000 cars with similar to the above mods make 250+ and thats on all sorts of different dynos.

specs of said cars (what turbo did they have) and what boost they were running?

Also who tuned their cars...it's not as hard as you think it is...the cars must have something lacking, ie. Rich afr's (bad tuning), low boost, or other such problems because i've seen 1000 cars with similar to the above mods make 250+ and thats on all sorts of different dynos.

Without going in to too much detail as to which cars didnt measure up to expectation i will mention 2 that we are mostly familiar with.

Adam (devils advocate, and Andy (bunta) Both of these cars along with several others have what on the surface would appear to be the correct mod selection to meet the above stated criteria but both fell considerably short.

what some of those cars were missing, was a good dyno.

LOL....it's funny cause it's true

Add a new clutch to the list if you have a stocker

My list would go like this:

Turbo

injectors

fuel pump

Z32 AFM

ECU of your choice/your tuners choice

Boost control - can be as cheap or expensive as you like - I am using a $35 manual controller and it builds boost FAST and holds it as steady as you could expect without spending ~$600

Splitfire coils - may as well to avoid dramas (I had an ongoing coil issue for over a year and tried so many different fixes, Splitfires solved it instantly)

will add to the list if anything comes to mind

Edit: just read you have a 5 puck clutch, so that should be fine

Also, you will not need a fuel reg, the factory one is fine.

Dont do it noel :wave: wait until i get mine working close to 99% effeciently then you can do your power goal :wave: Contact dan at eliteracing for alot of your needs very very helpfull aswell, but a hard person to book something in with. Always busy :laugh: but always will fit you in, and will pretty well explain alot of things for you. Not only that the above mentioned list will be a good start.

555cc nismos will do the job for that power, (850)

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump (250) Make sure you hard wire to battery terminal

Or tomei (400) Direct fit no hassels

Clutch (Check the desired specs of it first)

Turbo Choice seems that 2540r was not bad in power range with registering 249rkws on that dyno with the 0.64 housing. Fat torque good power, or the highflow will/should also do the job. (1000 to 2000) Including lines.

Catch can (90)

ECU (Pfc less than 900) (Haltec upwards of 2000)

Tune (600 cash job allstar)

Splitfires (550 to 600 delivered) Check forsale section here

Plugs go the sevens heat range gapped 0.8mm (30)

Cams if you want them tomei 256/8.5 (850 delivered through nengun)

Z32 (ecu dependant as haltecs use map sensors) (250 upwards)

And den

Brakes (new pads slotted discs) Contact Dan

Suspension check the group buys

And den

Wheels your choice you know the price by now

And den..

Thats all i can think of. Oh fuel reg you dont need one unless chasing exceeding power of injectors or pump not sufficient in pumping enough fuel but nismos adjustable is sufficent for the task if you would like it. (upwards from 200 pends where you shop)

Boost controller (Too many to choose from currently using greddy profec b will let you know how it goes after i fine tune the boost settings lol) But check the FI section or Forsale section and business section for this very well competatively priced (Check out slide as a personal choice he can help)

There ya go old fella :D

Please note prices are close to the cheapest i have found and you may find cheaper. so dont take for granted on the above prices.

Thankyou

Adam

Oh and Noel or others, please allow for the case of shythappens and murphys law (If anything can go wrong, will go wrong) Budget for this case

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...